Bandsaw Risers - Grizz, Ridgid, & JET

[Ron Magen]

I've been 'following' the recent thread about the Ridgid Riser Kit with some interest.

A couple of years ago I finally 'bit the bullet' and got a 14inch JET 'Open Stand' bandsaw. I thought the Riser, but passed on it in favor of the Fence and Miter Gauge. {It was only about $65 . . . and I could get it later, if a need arose}.

Well, 'later' came and they are now about $100 . . . from Amazon.

I remembered some discussion about the Grizzly and using their 'kit'. Following this recent thread led back to a similar comment. I had contacted Grizzly a while back and asked about this. Needless to say . . . they side-stepped the question quite well !! Anyhow, yesterday I looked at their web site. They had two Saws visually very similar to mine . . . and TWO different 'kits' listed. Asked what the difference was, the answer I got was NO difference in the 'Riser Block'. The only part difference was the DIAMETER of the 'Guide Post'.

Now, MY question to the 'Group' is basically trying to get CONFIRMATION that the 'Riser Block' in fact DOES FIT the 14inch JET Open Stand bandsaw {I'll measure the Guide Post for the 'proper' one}. I don't mind a roughness in the casting, or a slight mis-alignment of the outside edges, as long as the mating faces match and the STRUCTURAL integrity isn't compromised.

Regards & Thanks, Ron Magen Backyard Boatshop {PS - YES, I've learned. Like reefing, if you THINK you'll need it . . .get it . . . NOW!!} {PPS - IF does fit . . . anybody want to buy some NEW, UNWRAPPED 93{+}inch BS blades ??}

[cselby]

I got into this with my King saw. It is an 'older' model with no riser available, but there are 2 kits for newer saws. I bought one of those kits (pick one) with the OK to bring it back if the thing would not work out. The riser has 2 guide pins that are drilled in the wrong locations to work. The kit's guide post was 3/4" round while mine is 1" square. These were the two 2 major issues.

I ended up mounting the riser without the guide pins. They seemed to be there for assembly more than alignment ( the holes the pins drop into were larger that the pin and allowed for movement). I measured and redrilled the pin holes and got it wrong - I couldn't get the saw wheels in coplaner. I took it apart and removed the pins. If someone can logically point out a realworld need for them, I will drill holes and drive in roll pins.

The blade safety guard (blade moving up) was modified slightly (read sawing and filing) as the mounting holes were a bit off. The blade guard at the guide post was redrilled to fit the post.

The guide post was a bit more work. The round kit post would not work in a square hole. And my post was solid 1" square steel with another steel block welded at the bottom to mount the blade guide bearing/cool blocks/ blade guard . I hacksawed the weld off this small mounting block, eyeballed the location and rewelded it to 1" square pipe (heavy wall). The square pipe is strong enuff to take the pressures of the blade.

Total working time to do this was maybe 1/2 a day not counting the coffee and cigarette thinking time and having to disassemble the riser because I screwed up. It includes the time to fine tune the bits that didn't quite fit right.

Why go through all this work? I just bought this saw thinking (after a phone call) that the correct riser was available. No way my wife would let me buy another saw. And I buggered up the riser kit as I was 'test fitting' it and it wasn't returnable.

Buy a riser kit that isn't listed for your saw??? Sure, but buy it with the OK to return it - if it will not work. Buy it locally if you can because returning things mailorder is a pain. The extra couple of bucks may be better than return shipping cost. Lay it all out in front of the saw, get the coffee and cigarettes and think it through how you will proceed and make you decision.

Pete

[Ron Magen]

Pete,

Thanks for the quick response.

I've already contemplated most of the things you've mentioned. {Except for the cigarettes - gave them up more then 20 years ago . . . can't even afford them, now. However, every boatshop has a 'Moaning Chair' . . .}. What you say makes a lot of sense, and anybody who has spent any amount of time in a shop has LEARNED {hopefully} to take a long think BEFORE picking up that BIG HAMMER !!

I remember a story, or article, about a similar 'guide pins' situation. That's why I said that a little cosmetic mis-alignment of the frame edges didn't matter - as long as the MECHANICAL INTEGRITY wasn't effected. I have to think a little longer and harder then guys like you . . . I DON'T have access to welding equipment.

Also 'local' and 'cheap' are mutually exclusive for me. I think there are a couple of JET dealers locally {probably don't 'stock' things like riser kits, would have to 'special order' them}and I'm sure they will NOT be 'discounters'. The nearest Grizzly operation is about 300 miles away - around 2/3rds of the way across Pennsylvania {I'm in suburban Philly}. About half of what Amazon wants for the JET unit, but not only will I have to pay shipping BUT State Tax as well !! THAT's 'insult to injury' !! Also why I am trying to justify going for the Grizz vs. the Jet.

Maybe I'm just being 'foolishly cheap' ?? If the Grizz Cost, plus Shipping, plus Tax , plus 'Time & Grief' comes out to 2/3rds the price of the Jet . . . why not just buy the Jet and 'drop it in' ??

Regards & Thanks, Ron

[cselby]

Nothing wrong with being cheap. It's buying cheap that's a problem. And being cheap myself, I have bought cheap tools to my great waste of money. Buying sight unseen is the other issue. Would be nice if you could get the kit laid out in a photo and dimensioned to help make you choices. Ask about the return policy before you buy anywhere.

good luck Pete

[bf]

My advice is to just bite the bullet and buy the Jet kit. I don't know if I read your post wrong, but it seems like you are only going to save $35. To me, that's just not worth spending a day trying to jerryrig something that was not intended to fit perfectly. Also, remember that you might compromise the safety of your saw by jerry-rigging it. The idea of possibly having to drill extra holes into my bandsaw does not appeal to me in the least.

I'm sure some people have gotten it to work. But is it really worth it to save $35 ? Surely, you could save that much at the grocery store in a few weeks and not risk screwing up your machine or having a potential safety risk. Even if you get it to work, there's the risk that it might be a bit quirky and throw the wheel alignment slightly off, or some other headache...