Does anyone know of a removeable splitter, like the ones they have available for the Delta Unisaws that will work on a DeWalt 746? I can always make one but would prefer a metal one to a wooden one. Thanks.
Tom P. Tom P.
Its not exactly what you had in mind, but there are two commercial splitter solutions if you have a zero tolerance throat plate. I like these two solutions because they can be left in place virtually all the time (for 90 degree cuts) and you don't have to worry about them being removeable.
Mesa Vista
Micro-Jig
I like these solutions because they are simple, remain in place and don't have the cumbersome anti-kickback pawls. I much prefer other tools to the anti-kickback pawls. The only thing that would be superior to these approaches (in my opinion) is a European style retracting and tilting Riving knife - something that's pretty much impossible to add to an American style table saw (unless you're into machining).
Bob
Snip
If you click the link at the bottom the page with the bad pictures, it will take you to a page that shows how to make a ZCI and install that splitter.
I just got this splitter in the mail Friday and plan on installing it today. As you indicated, it may never have to be removed as long as you are making through cuts but you will have to remove it if you cut slots that are shallower than the height of the splitter or cut dado's shallower than the height of the splitter.
The better picture link to the Mesa Vista splitter.
"Leon" wrote in news:v0NXb.22083$ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr24.news.prodigy.com:
I find that website very difficult to read. I really *HATE* those dark backgrounds.
Does anyone know a trick to get my browser to switch to a lighter background and darker type, with redoing the page?
We look forward to a full report!
Bob
I have difficulty reading it, also, Han. I discovered it helps a lot to tell your browser to use the largest font size.
Bob
The splitter is installed. I installed the Micro-Jig splitter. This splitter was a 15 minute setup. Instructions were way more than adequate. You can also go to their web site and use the illustration and do just fine. Basically you take a piece of "Man Made" material that is 1/2" thick, 4.125" wide by 15" long and square it on the corners. You mark a line across the width 3" from one end. With the line end of the board near you, set the fence at 2" and rip the piece up to that line and unplug the saw. Move the jig back towards you a bit and raise the blade all the way up. Then insert the "drill hole jig" in the saw kerf at the far end of the ripped board. Pull the board toward the front of the saw until a blade tooth reaches a mark on the jig. Clamp all this all in place and against the fence so that there is no movement and screw the jig to the board with the provided screws. Then drill the 3 splitter holes in the ZCI. The kit comes with a 7/64" bit to drill the holes. When the 3 holes are drilled remove all this and insert the splitter. Done.
I deviated from the instructions in that I did not clamp all this down to prevent movement although I did leave the fence in place. After drilling the first hole and the hole jig moved on me I realized why you should clamp this in place. Not to worry, I used another 7/64" drill bit to index the first hole through the first hole in the jig and drilled the remaining 2 holes.
The splitter, a half circle with tapered ends on front and back has 3 pegs that fit into the holes that were drilled directly behind the blade. There are 2 splitters that both fit different ways. Depending on which splitter you use and which direction you insert the splitter determines the amount of pressure it exerts on the wood against the fence after being cut. There are
4 possible settings. Setting 1 has no offset and is in perfect alignment with the blade. The remaining 3 settings offset the splitter in .003" increments towards the fence. Even with me not strictly following the instructions I was able to use the "0" setting on the splitter.I question how long the small pegs will last before they break by some accident but replacements should be very cheap as the whole setup with 2 splitters, jig, screws, and drill bit are only $14.99 during introduction. I have not really had a chance to test and use the splitter yet but it seems that it will do what it is suppose to do and the few boards that I have run through did not come in contact with the blade on the fence side.
The rest of the afternoon I took pictures and posted the magnificent Dado jig that I have built and modified.. ;~) Check a.b.p.w. if you are interested.
"Bob Davis" wrote in news:_eVXb.5173 $ snipped-for-privacy@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net:
Thanks, Bob, but then I have to reset the browser after I leave, and the "field of vision" becomes very narrow. I guess I should mail the webmaster him/herself.
Han wrote in news:Xns94914EE497A38ikkezelf@199.45.49.11:
I have emailed to the site the following:
(rec.woodworking) about the splitter pages on your site in that they are very difficult to read because of the lack of contrast between the dark green background and the small text in amber or whatever that color is. The same goes for the pages with dark blue text on a dark green background.
and to increase the text size used.
as good as the material deserves. Thanks for reading this
The splitter is made of polycarbonate (like Lexan) which has amazing strength. It might outlast the tablesaw. As you pointed out, the cost is nominal.
Bob
Well said, Han
I got the Biesmeyer snap in splitter for my JTAS-10L left tilter. I works great. Was a little fussy getting it installed. Mainly because there was not a whole lot of room getting hands down throat hole. But once aligned it snaps in and out very easily. I paid about $100 for it
Check out the Biesemeyer site. I think it will fit most of the popular cabinet saws. Not sure about contracter saws tho.
Tom Prestia wrote:
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