Does anyone know of a removeable splitter, like the ones they have available
for the Delta Unisaws that will work on a DeWalt 746? I can always make one
but would prefer a metal one to a wooden one. Thanks.
Its not exactly what you had in mind, but there are two commercial splitter
solutions if you have a zero tolerance throat plate. I like these two
solutions because they can be left in place virtually all the time (for 90
degree cuts) and you don't have to worry about them being removeable.
Mesa Vista http://www.grip-tite.com/splitter.html . The pictures are poor
quality, but you can see much better pictures at a user website
http://www.homestead.com/ValRoseWoodWorks/Splitter.html . I'm evaluating
this splitter right now. Its dirt simple and actually works well. You have
to have a drill press to get a foolproof installation. It has both 1/8" and
3/32" splitters available in the same package. It costs $7.00
Micro-Jig http://www.microjig.com/MJ%20Splitter.htm . This splitter is
quickly removeable but probably does not ever need to be removed. It sits
pretty low. It only comes in 1/8" width (will not work for thin kerf
blades). It costs $14.95.
I like these solutions because they are simple, remain in place and don't
have the cumbersome anti-kickback pawls. I much prefer other tools to the
anti-kickback pawls. The only thing that would be superior to these
approaches (in my opinion) is a European style retracting and tilting Riving
knife - something that's pretty much impossible to add to an American style
table saw (unless you're into machining).
If you click the link at the bottom the page with the bad pictures, it will
take you to a page that shows how to make a ZCI and install that splitter.
I just got this splitter in the mail Friday and plan on installing it today.
As you indicated, it may never have to be removed as long as you are making
through cuts but you will have to remove it if you cut slots that are
shallower than the height of the splitter or cut dado's shallower than the
height of the splitter.
The splitter is installed.
I installed the Micro-Jig splitter. This splitter was a 15 minute setup.
Instructions were way more than adequate. You can also go to their web site
and use the illustration and do just fine. Basically you take a piece of
"Man Made" material that is 1/2" thick, 4.125" wide by 15" long and square
it on the corners. You mark a line across the width 3" from one end. With
the line end of the board near you, set the fence at 2" and rip the piece
up to that line and unplug the saw. Move the jig back towards you a bit and
raise the blade all the way up. Then insert the "drill hole jig" in the saw
kerf at the far end of the ripped board. Pull the board toward the front of
the saw until a blade tooth reaches a mark on the jig. Clamp all this all
in place and against the fence so that there is no movement and screw the
jig to the board with the provided screws. Then drill the 3 splitter holes
in the ZCI. The kit comes with a 7/64" bit to drill the holes. When the 3
holes are drilled remove all this and insert the splitter. Done.
I deviated from the instructions in that I did not clamp all this down to
prevent movement although I did leave the fence in place. After drilling
the first hole and the hole jig moved on me I realized why you should clamp
this in place. Not to worry, I used another 7/64" drill bit to index the
first hole through the first hole in the jig and drilled the remaining 2
The splitter, a half circle with tapered ends on front and back has 3 pegs
that fit into the holes that were drilled directly behind the blade. There
are 2 splitters that both fit different ways. Depending on which splitter
you use and which direction you insert the splitter determines the amount of
pressure it exerts on the wood against the fence after being cut. There are
4 possible settings. Setting 1 has no offset and is in perfect alignment
with the blade. The remaining 3 settings offset the splitter in .003"
increments towards the fence. Even with me not strictly following the
instructions I was able to use the "0" setting on the splitter.
I question how long the small pegs will last before they break by some
accident but replacements should be very cheap as the whole setup with 2
splitters, jig, screws, and drill bit are only $14.99 during introduction.
I have not really had a chance to test and use the splitter yet but it seems
that it will do what it is suppose to do and the few boards that I have run
through did not come in contact with the blade on the fence side.
The rest of the afternoon I took pictures and posted the magnificent Dado
jig that I have built and modified.. ;~) Check a.b.p.w. if you are
(rec.woodworking) about the splitter pages on your site in that they are
very difficult to read because of the lack of contrast between the dark
green background and the small text in amber or whatever that color is.
The same goes for the pages with dark blue text on a dark green
and to increase the text size used.
as good as the material deserves. Thanks for reading this
I have the Delta removable splitter and it is great imo.
There's a review of it here along with other info..
firstname.lastname@example.org (Tom Prestia) wrote in message
I got the Biesmeyer snap in splitter for my JTAS-10L left tilter. I
works great. Was a little fussy getting it installed. Mainly because
there was not a whole lot of room getting hands down throat hole. But
once aligned it snaps in and out very easily. I paid about $100 for it
Check out the Biesemeyer site. I think it will fit most of the popular
cabinet saws. Not sure about contracter saws tho.
Tom Prestia wrote:
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