Well done- an excellent idea.
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14 years ago
RE: Neat Jig Courtesy of WoodSmithShop
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14 years ago
I'm sure and I under stand the concept.
Are you ripping strips in the cross cut set up position? If so, what holds the stock once it becomes 3/4 wide or narrower?
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14 years ago
Yep.
Another scrap with a rabbet sized to the thickness of the stock.
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14 years ago
So does deflation, or so I'm told anyway.
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14 years ago
Sure looks like an good way to waste time.
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14 years ago
A slightly cheaper version that works as well:
formatting link
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14 years ago
It would me much easier and faster to just set the fence once and rip.
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14 years ago
When you are ripping numerious THIN pieces which should be on the wast side you don't have the issue of the the thick waste side pushing into the blade and becoming slightly dished out. And ripping pieces less than 1/4" thick tends to get a bit more dicey as the thin pieces tend to want to drift back into the back of the blade brfore reaaching the splitter if they are against the fence.
Basically you end up pushing the work through fron the waste side when ripping thins strips against the fence. That can cause accumilated problems with each pass, the wast side is no longer straight.
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14 years ago
Except this is for multiple strips/cuts. You'd have to reset the fence accurately each time or cut with the waste on the fence side which is susceptible to "kickback." 1/4" strips are hard to do that way.
Greg G.
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14 years ago
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14 years ago
See my post to Greg.
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14 years ago
Instead of just "stating it", how about explaining "how" you did it? Otherwise, your statement is a complete waste.
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14 years ago
I do the same thing. I use a zero-clearance insert and a push stick that sits on top of as well as behind the board. I usually rip my edging to a strong 1/8" though, not a sixteenth.
JP
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14 years ago
I am guessing he may be missing the point. From CW's description I would say that he is simply cutting strips exactly the same way you would rip a 2" wide piece.
But there is a problem with that. Because more push goes agains the waste side, the wast tends to grind a bit more against the blade and thends to loose it's straight edge. OK for a few passes but yesterday I was doing 12 passes from a single 1x6 and surely would have had pieces that were inconsistant in thickness from one end to the other had I cut them against the fence. Been there, done that.
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14 years ago
No one asked how. Take a 2x4 about 18 inches long. Attach a piece of plywood or whatever is handy to the end so it hangs below the 2x4 by about 1/4 inch. Attach handle to top if desired (recommended). You now have a push block. Set fence, raise blade about 1/8 above stock thickness and push it through using the push block. Keep bloc against fence when doing so. The block pushes both cutoff and waste clear through the blade while holding the stock down. Complete control and no kickback. This technique is at least 40 years old. Probably older but that is the first time I saw it.
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14 years ago
I do the same thing. I use a zero-clearance insert and a push stick that sits on top of as well as behind the board. I usually rip my edging to a strong 1/8" though, not a sixteenth.
I knew I couldn't be the only one. JP
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14 years ago
Myself ... just did a bunch of 3/16", 1/4" and 2/8" strips for trim, about 200lf. I use either the Gripper, and/or a thin push stick when necessary, precisely the desired width from end to end.
I find that the repeated fence settings with these jigs cause small, but aggravating variations in width that either waste stock, or bite you in the butt when you least expect it.
YMMV ....
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14 years ago
LOL ... different strokes! It's when I don't cut them against the fence that I get inconsistent widths. :)
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14 years ago
That is why you cut'm a tad strong and then run them through your "drum sander". ;~)
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14 years ago
Yeah, I do actually use the fence on down to 1/4" under that I go outside the blade and fence. I don't wanna chew up my Gripper. I find that there is the problem of keeping up with the small bit of wood left at the end of the waste side, some times it does not get cut off, sometimes it flares at the end. A few years ago I noticed that the "correct way" to cut veneers according to the Laguna video is to readjust the fence with each pass. I suspect that because you don't/can't use a splitter with a BS the waste side eventually becomes bowed or tapered after several passes. Laguna eventually came up with a solution for adjusting the fence, "an accessory fence". LOL
Pretty cool, it uses an adjustment wheel to move the fence for quick adjustments when cutting veneers on the out side of the blade.