Does anyone know of a book, manual or video on the operational uses of
a tenoning jig used with a table saw? In my case, it's a Delta Model
34-184. The manual that came with the jig talks about "several methods
in which a mortise-and-tenon can be cut", but only gives one example.
It's not as easy as it might seem. Have been experimenting making
tenons with various pieces of scrap wood, but am not necessarily happy
with the results, especially the time when the saw blade came in
contact with the jig's aluminum base.
Would like to learn how the professionals use the tool when making
furniture. I made a plant stand for my wife and used my shaper table to
cut the tenons with a 4 degree bevel on the structural shoulders of the
rails to mate with outward angle of the legs. They results were fine,
but it sure took a long time in the making.
Thanks for the help,
The biggest problem imo w/ the current generation of tenoning jigs is
they're too light since the old "real" jigs are now so expensive they
appear to all have disappeared from production since the only market
now is for individuals or small shops since large shops and
manufacturers had almost universally gone to custom setups.
I don't know what the manual gives as example nor do you say what, in
particular, you're finding difficult so don't know what specifically to
recommend as a cure. However, for "routine" tenons, the best technique
in my book is to use the double-blade with proper spacer and thus cut
both sides of the tenon simultaneously. The face cut should almost
always be cut first using a stop block as length-setter for consistency
and then the cheeks. It is particularly important with these light
jigs to hold them down on the table consistently or the weight of the
material can cause them to not be perpendicular to the table. That's
where the old-style large jigs had it all over the current ones--they
weighed 40lb or so so were far more stable.
I don't know of a particular reference, however, as the old
Delta/Rockwell writings on moulding and jointing I have seen years ago
are no longer in print. Someone else will undoubtedly have some
currently available info there (at least, hopefully).
I'm always remembering the "one other thing I intended to add"... :)
I've intended to try to add additional weight to the recently-acquired
Powermatic version I got cheaply at a sale to see how it could possibly
be modified to perform more nearly like the old-style Delta. I'm
convinced if I can find a place to mount at least another several
pounds w/o interfering w/ the adjustments it would help significantly
with it and with all the other essentially clones on the market...
I have two of those jigs. They are older ones but they are both poorly
made. I use one for tenoning if I have a large batch to cut otherwise I
just use the miter gage to make the shoulder cut then cut the cheeks with my
bandsaw. Final fitting is done with my shoulder plane.
Here are my tips. Set it up to cut the outside of the tenon first. Cut all
of your pieces.
Re-set to cut all of the other side. I have found that flipping the board
over is more accurate (and safer) than resetting the jig to cut inside or
close to the jig. Some use two blades separated by a spacer but I have
found that method limits my ability to carefully fit the tenon to the
Make several test cuts first. Leave it fat and allow for trimming.
Oh ya, I use the second one as a spine jig. Its permanently set up for
Different strokes... I really don't like the flip methods as any error in
setup is doubled. Also, I prefer to reference all of my cuts from a single
face. I don't know what technique/tool you use for mortises. I use a Delta
benchtop mortiser, and I get pretty consistent results. That allows me to
use the dual-blade w/ spacer method without fussing. I have marked a couple
of my dado shims that I know work. I had to fuss once. Now I know exactly
which shims to use.
Obviously your mileage varies.
But I strongly advise you to be sure the work is securely clamped
for each pass.
If by chance it is not clamped tight, the piece will tip forward onto
the top of the blade and be catapulted back toward you.
The Delta manual is a parts breakdown and nothing more.
You need to invest several hours and many scrap boards
into a self-learning process.
A hint: Look at all the joints on the box and see how
many you can duplicate. **** scraps ****** not a real
project until you feel VERY good about the setup.
Using the same blade will also be helpful.
Norm rarely shows the setup and test cuts involved in
I would also learn to create joints using a stop block
and dado set.
Do not attempt to cut the jig anymore, it dulls the
hell out of the blade.
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