I fooled with that thing for several hours. I have two blades adjusted
to about .002 above outfeed table. One blade is at 0. SHould I try to
get that last blade to .002 also or knock down the two at .002 to zero.
It is very hard to get everything exactly the same on three blades.
Or will the difference be negligible the way it is?
It is just people on here some say to adjust to .002 over the outfeed
table to account for blade wear and deflection. SOme say it must be
exactly 0 or you will not get a level cut. Just a little confused.
Why not give it a go and see how it works? Might find it "good
In general must agree w/ Locutus it's easier to fiddle w/ one than
two...I reiterate previous recommendation that w/o the adjusting screws
it will undoubtedly by easier if you've tightened them down to bring
the one back up a little high and tap it in than get it out by only a
thou or two.
The thing about the height relative to the outfeed table is, yet again,
the point in having the height adjusting screws on the cutterhead
itself. Get the knives consistent, then make some test cuts and, if
and only if needed, then adjust the cutterhead height. Again, this is
how the manual instructs.
Reiterate yet again, however...woodworking isn't machining, and
obsessing over precision isn't productive. The point in having the
machine should be to use it (although there are those who seemingly
never do get around to actually ever making sawdust---you may be one.
Whether that's your objective, I don't know).
hey, go for it. get them all the same.
now, whether your machine will cut straighter at 0 or at +.002 only
you can determine, and only by careful testing. so, with the machine as
it is, make a pass on a known straight board. label it 0,+.002,+.002.
then adjust the 0 blade to +.002, make a pass on a known straight board
and label it +.002,+.002,+.002. then set them all to 0, make a pass on
a known straight board and label it 0,0,0.
for significant results, you will probably need to make multiple
samples at each setting to average out for variations in the stability
and density of your boards. also,make boards of different lengths....
now set up an accurate test station to determine straightness. if you
get meaningful results, including things like (no difference),(high
blades cut concave),(high blades cut straight),(low blades cut
convex),(low blades cut straight),(other), let us know.
now, go get going, now....
Rather than go for "ideal/perfect", run a few boards with the
set up you have. If the results look good to you then you're
done. If not, THEN adjust the one that's 0.002" off the other
Keep in mind that the joiner and planer are for creating reference
surfaces and edges for subsequent parts making. Glass smooth
edges and surfaces aren't necessary. And while making and
assembling parts, your going to get smudges, pencil marks and
stuff on the surfaces which you'll remove later with sand
paper and/or scrapers.
Realize that 0.002" is less than 1/256ths of an inch. After
you run 20 or 30 feet of stuff the 0.002" high knife edges
will probably be closer to the Zero knife anyway.
While it's good to know if your machines are set up correctly,
and assuming an out of ideal specs isn't dangerous, it's the
results that are important - not the theoretical perfection.
Don't sweat the small stuff unless they significantly affect
the big stuff.
The jointer is used for two operations.....jointing edges, which is easy and
leveling boards which requires precision setting of the knives. I learned
this when I tried to flatten a badly warped piece of maple. It made edges
straight as can be but the warp got worse the more times I put the piece
through the jointer. I then set the blades exactly all the same and level
with the outlet table. The board suddenly got flatter and flatter with each
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