OK, another newbie question:
What tenoning jig do you all suggest? Can you use them to cut on the thin
edge as well? By the images I've seen it looks like it would be hard to hold
the workpiece in place securely to cut that side.
(Back in HS we used to cut tenons on a band saw, with the shoulders done on
a table saw.)
It is easy to simply make one. All it needs to do is give you a long enough
sliding surface so that the item you are cutting doesn't rock back and
forth, and needs to be wide enough (or hook on the fence well enough) so
that it doesn't rock side to side. On top of that there needs to be some way
to hold it and to clamp your wood to it.
The ability to adjust for angles different than 90 degrees might be useful
sometime, but maybe not.
My first tenoning jig was a length of 1x6 with a piece of 1x2 glued on at a
right angle about 2/3 of the way back. Just clamp the piece to be cut in
that corner and run it through. For wider pieces you would want something
wider than a 1x2.
I prefer a jig which rides on the fence instead of having something which
uses the miter slots as the fence already has a built-in measuring and
adjusting capability. With a miter slot based one, you need to build a means
to provide fine adjustment.
I have a Delta but if I had it to do again, I'd save the money and make one.
They are quite simple as all you need is 2 boards on edge at 90 degrees with
the one closest to you being perpindicular to the miter slots. Brace it
near the top with a thin 45 degree cut board and you're done. Use your
fence as the adjuster.
As several have said - you can make one. The Delta (recently improved they
state) has been the defacto standard and time proven if you're going to
purchase one. It's hefty and reasonably accurate after you figure out the
backlash tolerance on the adjustments.
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