Yes, can you read .dwg files? It uses your fence as a guide tather than
your miter slot and you must modify deminsions for your particular fence.
You will need to also add a clamp to hold the wood.
Yes, I made my own tenoning jig. Sorry, I don't have pictures but I will
describe the process:
I have an older table saw with a very accurate miter gauge and hold-down and
I used the miter gauge as the foundation of the jig. I had a straight scrap
of hard maple about 7" wide and 18" long. I cut off one piece and turned it
at right angles to the other and glued and screwed them together. I added a
stiffener to the top of the vertical piece (fence) to keep it from twisting
or warping and affixed a stop strip along the back of the fence to keep the
workpiece oriented viertically. I also added a stop block to the horizontal
piece so the fence (and thus the screws) could never come into contact with
the blade. For added assurance I always cut the cheek farthest from the
fence and flip the workpiece over to make the other cheek cut.
I don't have micro adjustment capability -- I have to loosen the miter gauge
hold down and reset the jig -- but that has not presented much of a problem
except some increased setup time. I have one of those accu-cut disks on my
saw's table and it makes it very easy to gauge the cut line on the
workpiece. I usually cut my tenons a little too thick on the first pass and
"sneak up" on the final dimension. That assures me of a nice snug fit.
A caveat: I happened to get my fence perfectly vertical on the first try
but the cut line was off a fraction. I had to re-do it to make the cheeks
perfectly parallel to the workpiece sides.
Work slowly and carefully with a framing square (preferred) or speed square
of proven accuracy. Test your results by making a stub tenon on a scrap and
fitting it into a groove plowed into another scrap. I did this with nominal
1X4 material. Just using the saw blade, I set the fence, plowed a 1/8" wide
groove 1/2" deep, flipped the test piece end-for-end and finished the
groove. That gave me a 1/4" groove perfectly centered in the stock. I then
laid out and cut the tenon making the shoulder cuts first then the cheek
cuts. This procedure will show you quickly and very graphically if your
jig is accurate.
Good luck...work safely.
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