Question about Dust Collection with a Delta Contractor Saw

[Neil Larson]

I have an 8 year old Delta contractor saw that I have conected to my delta DC. I used a 14" generic TS adapter and boxed it in to fit the delta. I also put a couple ramps in to assist in the dust movement. The question is how in the h**l do I block the back of the saw off to contain all the dust. I made a cover that fit around all the motor mounts and the belt but now I can't tilt my blade.

Anybody figure out a better way to do it?

Nitromaster

[Lawrence L'Hote]

FWIW, sometime ago ,I decided to 'improve' the efficiency of the dust collection from my Unisaw. I plugged some holes with duct tape and others, like the tilt crank, I covered the slot(s) with some of that thin magnetic sheeting. It was apparent when I was cutting my next piece of wood the 'new-and-improved' system was NOT working as well as the old. If would appear that you need a large "wash" of air to clear the dust and I was allowing only a small area for air to enter my system... Off came the sheeting and plugs. You might try some of that magnetic sheeting with your saw. YMMV

Larry

[Greg O]

I have a 5 year old Delta contractors saw. I have a shop built hopper on the bottom where I connect my dust collector, 4" opening. Nothing else is sealed, covered, what ever, and I am satisfied with the dust collection from the saw. If the dust gets under the table, the collector gets it. I can watch dust get sucked through the slot in the blade insert. The only improvement would be an over arm guard with a dust hood/blade guard, but I am not ready to go there yet. I have the Horrible Freight, $159 on sale, dust collector. I do not believe you will benefit closing up the back of the saw unless you have a very small, (CFM), dust collector. Greg

[Edwin Pawlowski]

Rare earth magnets. Made the back from 1/4 plywood and it comes off in seconds.

[Highspeed]

[Nate Perkins]

"Neil Larson" wrote in news:rvwNd.1205$ [e-mail]:

I use 1/4" hardboard with cutouts for the belt, etc. It's secured with magnets. When I need to tilt the blade, I have to remove the panel. Fortunately the majority of my cuts are not with the blade tilted.

[DIYGUY]

Seems to me that FWW published an article some while back about how to make a back for this very saw. Was rather involved with lots of cutouts in some 1/4" plywood if I recall. It did allow for tilting the arbor. Still had lots of holes but I guess it did enough of a good job that FWW decided to write it up. Wish I could remember the year but then there are lots of things I wish for in my dotage. Anyone with a library care to enlighten us on the issue?

Nate Perk> "Neil Larson" wrote in

[Nate Perkins]

DIYGUY wrote in news:raUNd.380$I3.68 @bignews4.bellsouth.net:

A search of the online index makes me wonder if it's the Nov/Dec issue of

2000 ... "Dust Proof Your Contractor's Saw" by Dick McDonough?

I'd like to build one of those. I guess it's time for a trip to the library.

Thanks for the tip.

[George]

That's one. Depending on the age of your saw, might not work properly. Sort of a combination of the new Delta sloped ramp and a loose plywood cutout. Only one cutout, though, so it may not be the one the DIYGUY recalls.