Q Re Sanding Sealer

I've seen instructions lots of times that you control the shade of the stain by the final grit before applying it. 100 and 150 grit are recommended for a darker stain and 220 & up for lighter and finer stains. Makes sense, I've tested the theory & it does work well to get closer to the shade you want on the first application. Penetration seems deeper too at lower grits.

Pop

You told me you were not going to touch that stuff as you had no plans :-) I thought you might not be able to leave it alone for long. Wood workiers seem to be like fishermen, except the tall tales become before they do anything.

I am glad the wood found a good home, now to get rid of the other 4,000 BF and I will be happy.

BTW coarse grit for the sanding sealer, but teak really does not need it.

JJ

Oscar wrote:

Jeremy, I only messed with about 1 bft, just experimenting with some finishes....first sanding sealer followed by high gloss poly. Looks pretty good but I'm going to try just toung oil next, experiment with 3-4 coats, maybe more. I got my old teak entertainment center out of storage this weekend (living room is finally done). I never really examined the piece until now, it is really beautiful wood...the grain or texture really jumps out at you (reminds me of quilted maple in a way). Unfortunately, it is veneer over a cheap particle board and not quality construction. An excelent way to make a fine wood cheap.

Do you have any suggestions on how to make the texture jump out and grab your attnention?

Jeff

BTY, I took samples to work to gloat...I send any prospects your way......If I cant have it all......crap.

A couple of light layers of pure tung oil or a mix with linseed and a clear finish over the top if you do not want to keep oiling throughout the life of the piece. Two or three coats of sanding sealer also does the job quite well.

Jeremy Contact me for cheap teak