Sanding and finishing Walnut.

I'm in the final steps of sanding a project and have noticed some sanding swirl marks. I have been very careful to step up the sanding grades from

120-150-180-220. I have even tried handing sanding this test board. I still can't seem to remove all the swirl marks. I haven't used walnut before so I may have to drop back and try the sanding process again from 120 grit or lower. Is walnut that hard that it may require a lower sanding grit to start from. I have paper from 80 for my sander. I'm using a festool 150/3 sander. I was going to use Pore-O-Pac paste wood grain filler first then use a tung oil. Is there another way I should consider for a natural grain glass smooth finish. I haven't used a wood grain filler before so this is all new. Thanks again.
Reply to
Keith
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The current issue of WOOD magazine has a really good write-up on = finishing various woods. It should help.

--=20 PDQ

-- "Keith" wrote in message = news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com... | I'm in the final steps of sanding a project and have noticed some = sanding swirl | marks. I have been very careful to step up the sanding grades from | 120-150-180-220. I have even tried handing sanding this test board. I = still | can't seem to remove all the swirl marks. I haven't used walnut before = so I may | have to drop back and try the sanding process again from 120 grit or = lower. Is | walnut that hard that it may require a lower sanding grit to start = from. I have | paper from 80 for my sander. I'm using a festool 150/3 sander.=20 | I was going to use Pore-O-Pac paste wood grain filler first then use a = tung | oil. | Is there another way I should consider for a natural grain glass = smooth finish. | I haven't used a wood grain filler before so this is all new. | Thanks again. |

Reply to
PDQ

Get the Bob Flexner book -- say from Lee Valley -- and have a look at=20 his sanding chapter...

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varsol or mineral spirits handy to clean the wood and look at a low =

angle for scratches.

Sounds like you are not sanding for enough time at each grade. Spend=20 most of your effort at 120 grade and then move up only after the finish=20 is flat and consistent in appearance. imo

--=20 Will R. Jewel Boxes and Wood Art

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power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20 who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw

Reply to
WillR

Actually Black and or American Walnut is pretty soft compared to Oak. I never go past 180 on Walnut or any other wood and usually start with 150.

Reply to
Leon

As Leon said, I start with 160-180 and move up from there. However, I prefer a scraper for finishing walnut. Secondly, swirl marks seem to show up only if I allow the sander to stop or start while in contact with the wood.

Dave

Reply to
Teamcasa

What type of sander are you using that caused the swirl marks?

Reply to
no(SPAM)vasys

swirl marks show up if you move the ROS too fast, also.

Dave

Reply to
David

LOL... Probably the smartest response.. Especially if a Non -Random orbital sander is being used.

Reply to
Leon

Reply to
Keith

Get the Bob Flexner book -- say from Lee Valley -- and have a look at his sanding chapter...

formatting link
varsol or mineral spirits handy to clean the wood and look at a low angle for scratches.

Sounds like you are not sanding for enough time at each grade. Spend most of your effort at 120 grade and then move up only after the finish is flat and consistent in appearance. imo

Reply to
mike hide

What brand of paper are you using? Not all are created equal with respect to quality control of grit sizes. I now only use Mirka brand and have had excellent results over the more inexpensive Porter-Cable-type branded home/hardware store selections.

Reply to
Fly-by-Night CC

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