I have purchased a PRL router lift and a PC 7518.
Now I need to make a router table to suit the combination. I am starting
with the table top and am figuring on using two sheets of 3/4" MDF with
laminate on both sides.
Question is that 2x(3/4) == 1.5" thick top. I was hoping that the PRL would
indicate what range of table top thickness is acceptable. One
recommendation I have from an Incra manual is to make the top form a single
3/4" piece of plywood -- which seems kind of thin to me
Ok so the question is for anyone with a PRL out there -- what table
thickness do you have and do you think a 1.5" thick table top would cause
any issues with the PRL
Seems to me it shouldn't matter. You make a recess in the
MDF that's the same size as the plate and the required depth
for the thickness of the plate. Next you make a clear hole
in the MDF that's 1/4"ish less than the opening required for
the insert. If the insert is designed correctly you should
have the full range of the insert. In other words, your top
can be 3" thick and it wouldn't matter.
At least that's the way it is with the JessEm.
I've got a PRL & 7518 mounted in a 1.5" thick top - 2 layers of 3/4" MDF
with laminate on top only. It's perfect, and having laminate on the bottom
wouldn't change that (although I'm not sure why it's necessary). It's a
fantastic setup. I hope you also bought the $10 template for routing the
cutout; it will make the difference between a good installation and a
Thanks for the info -- and thanks to all the other folks that chimed in.
I bought the template for routing the whole -- figured I was in for $500
might as well go for another $10 ;)
I also bought a twin linear from incra -- can't wait to get the whole
thing going. I'll post pics when I am done
Cheers to All
Do you (or anyone else know) for certain the radius of the
out side corners on the JessEm/Jointech/Anne Rockler
"Action" Jackson lifts?
UA100, who will resort to trial and error for the final fit
if need be but thought he'd *axe* anyway...
Radius gage. If you don't have one, a compass and a little trial and error
will get you there. Take a guess at the radius. Take the compass and draw
it. If it matches great, if not reduce or increase (whichever is
appropriate) by 1/16" increments until you get a match. It is highly likely
that it is a standard radius. If it isn't, a scriber and dial, digital or
vernier caliper will do it. That method requires a bit of math work but it
is rather unlikely that it is a non standard radius.
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