PC 7518 / router table

Hi! It's been too long since I hang around in here. Of course I didn't forget you guys, and I am sure LOT new friends are in here too! Greetings.

I bought a brand new PC 7518 yesterday. I thought the junk router table I got would work for a while but found out it won't even attach the 7518. So, anyway, I have two things needing help/advices.

1) I was trying to be open-mind to find a 3-1/4HP router, but seems PC are only widely available over other brands? I was looking for DeWalt, Bosch, even Milwaukee Elec, and couldn't find much out there. I end up buying the PC 7518 (I haven't even turn it on yet). The 7518 collet does not have a spindle lock (have to use two wrenches). Is there 3-1/4HP router that has a spindle lock that I can do it with one hand? It would be so much easier (for router table), would it? I have PC 690 which I have to use two wrenches. Now that I haven't been cutting wood for too long, I am just getting back to warm up my shop. By now, I thought the PC 7518 would be changed/updated after all those years, but it hasn't changed a bit!?!? I am planning to use this router for router table (most likely leave it there) and start trying out raise-panels.

2) Router tables... yes I read Pat Warner and others. I rather buy a router table than make one at this time. Right away, Bench Dog comes to my mind. But, Rockler seems to make good ones too? I saw one fence that can fold to like 45 degree, is that a necessity? Since I am "new" to raise-panels, I got PC 7518 (should I keep it?) and need a table. I have questions, but I am sure you know those common questions, so fire away tell me your experience/suggestions (or guide me to another thread, post the date and subject)... Should I get a bench model (and I make the legs so that the top levels with my DeWalt Table Saw)? Sure would like something to store the

1/2" bits, but that I can make (got a Jet Drill Press).

Thank you. This is my first time trying out the Xnews (just want to stop using the MS NewsReader, but still use IE :D ).

Chuck

Reply to
CNT
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Only if the spindle lock will stay in place. If you have to hold it while turning the wrench, no advantage. In a table, you'd want the lock on top so yo don't have to fumble under it. I use two wrenches and it is really very easy. Had a router with a lock and thought I'd miss it. I don't.

What would you update? It seems to work and has been around a long time.

Never saw theirs. I have a Benchdog and it is very nice.

I've not ever needed it, but there are more experienced than I so they may have other thoughts.

Depends on the shop layout. It can be handy to have extra support, but I've not needed it yet myself. You don't want something to come off the router table and bump into the saw or bench top next to it. My router table is about 1/4" higher than the bench next to it for that reason.

Just drill some holes in a block of wood. I used some scraps. You can get fancy if you want, or keep it just a block with holes. Make the holes larger than 1/2" though or the bits can get stuck in ther fairly hard. Or so I'm told. I keep them in the option drawer on my BD table. Same with the wrenches.

Reply to
Edwin Pawlowski

I have had a 7518 in a table for several years. It is a real horse - plenty of power for raised panel doors. My only gripe is the electronic speed control. Many times when running it at the slowest speed (10,000 rpm) to do raised panels, the motor simply stops as it is trying to compensate for the load and maintain constant speed. You have to power off the router and turn it back on and try again. It bugs the hell out of me. Ease into it and it is usually okay. Now, since you have a 7518 but have not yet used it, I suggest you return it and buy the Milwaukee 3 hp that competes with it. I saw one demoed at a woodworking show recently, and the first words out of the reps' mouth was "how many of you have a 7518 that stalls out". Numerous hands raised. He then demonstated how the Milwaukee does not do that. The price is the same and it's enough to convince me to go with big red. I haven't checked but I gotta believe it's on Amazon - and probably with no tax and no shipping. I have several Milwaukee tools including the mid size router that competes with the 690, and it is clearly superior to P-C.

Regarding the two wrench collet, I bought a special collet extender from Woodcraft that replaces the standard collet. It tightens down the bit with a T-handle allen wrench. It was pricey - $50, but it works perfect. I should also mention that I have my 7518 mounted on a Jessem Rout-R-Lift. Also pricey, but worth its weight in gold. Nowadays, you can buy routers with an above table lift built into the base.

Bob

Reply to
bob

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to link above, PC 7518 will not work with it? Meaning I need to look for an older model for it? There are other table-base thing (what are those exactly called?) on market, I will look into it.

I will keep looking and see if I can get my hands onto the Mil Ele model (is it a fixed-base or plunge?).

Chuck

Reply to
CNT

Will look into it, thanks!

Chuck

Reply to
CNT

Just thinking of all options. Maybe it just not a big issue.

Must be THAT good, huh! :)

Do you have lot of dents/holes on your wall? lol (just kidding) Good thought. I was thinking about the miter saw and the (bench) router table on the same level (one side of shop).

Reply to
CNT

CNT,

I have the 7518 and the Bench Dog Router Table and Lift. I couldn't be more pleased with either of them. I have not run into the problem with the router shutting off at lower speeds, but I also don't do a significant amount of raised panel work either. This router has handled a lot of work. The BD lift system is great and designed specifically for the 7518. The fence system is easy to use and flexible as well.

As for the wrenches. I personally find it very easy to use the two wrenches. I raise the router up in the BD Lift, and then change the bit from the top of the table. The single wrench option on my other routers still requires that it be held by one hand and a wrench to loosen or tighten. I personally prefer the leverage with two wrenches when loosening.

David

Reply to
DL

The base of the PC 7518 is attached to the underside of the router table. The motor is screwed/unscrewed to remove and install bits using the two wrenches. That's good anyway, because this (heavy) router should be removed anyway to prevent the insert from sagging.

I know you don't want to build one at this time, but you'll get exactly what you want in a router table (dust collection, electrical connection, bit storage, proper height, noise reduction, etc.) You can always buy a pre-fab fence. I like Norm's router station plans, but I altered the DC collection to have the port off the side rather than the back, plus made the drawers larger.

Reply to
Phisherman

The Rout_R_Lift FX is designed for 2HP routers, which the 7518 ain't. You need a Mast-R Lift, which they still make:

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've got the router and the lift and can testify to how great they work together.

Reply to
Mortimer Schnerd, RN

BOY! I just came back from Woodcraft and Rockler! Those router tables are expensive! I thought it would be about $200 for the top and lift mechanism assembly. Well, the JessEm Mast-R-Lift (plate model) is $270 (WC is black / R is blue). The Mast-R-Lift Excel Top (w/MicroDial) is $550, but will have to buy THEIR fence (unless I could cut a line on the tabletop for other fence). So, I guess I will HAVE TO build my own (only will buy a top from whoever, the rest I will do). I will have to look into Norm's website (thanks for mentioning Norm!).

One thing I like about the new Mast-R-Lift Excel Top is the vacume is in beneath the table top (but will still have to attach both beneath and top).

Could you explain (below statement) why? Is it a problem (or tricky) to change bits from the top?

Reply to
CNT

MastRLift is for the 7518

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Reply to
bob

already) is to through drill and tap the Allen head leveling screws so ya can do it all with the insert in place. I think this improvement was/has been made on the "lesser JessEms".

UA100, who will be through drilling and tapping his so you can level it with the insert in place/no really, it occurred to Delta a long time ago/decades or something...

Reply to
Unisaw A100

I got it. So, even with the Mast-R-Lift, I still (can easily?) remove the motor and leave it off while not in use. It only got a clip to hold the motor.

Since I haven't worked on a router table, it only looks reasonable (makes senses) to have the lift mechanism. I know that reaching underneath still will works (will still have to reach underneath to turn on the power switch for budget people :D ).

After little research, looks like JessEm Mast-R-Lift and table-top is way to go (not the "Excel Top" due to overpricing). Comparing stuff and price, JessEm table-top is very good (non-wood) for few dollars more. I still have to look for a fence (might endup with JessEm, but as of now I am still looking). I will just make the legs with 2x4's (maybe cabinets too).

Thanks for replies. More are welcome since I am still taking it easy researching. Oh, BTW, I think I will keep the PC 7518.

Chuck

Reply to
CNT

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