If you are outside the adjustment specs, you would have to cut off the track
and door won't fully open. Check out Wayne Dalton opener that goes above
the door. They have a model that works with non Wayne Dalton doors.
AFAICS the only thing limiting your shortening the rail would be the
height of your garage door and the availability of the proper tools.
But, if push came to shove, you might just get by with not pulling the
door "entirely Up" and flat.
Chances are the rail is made up from several pieces for easier shipping,
and you'll have to shorten one of those pieces and then drill some new
holes in it where the fasteners go.
Shortening the chain is a no-brainer, if you don't have access to a
"chain breaker" then just grind or file off the headed over "rivets" on
the desdired link of the chain and pry the side plate off. You might
need to pick up a "repair link" at the corner hardware store if you want
to make a really neat job of things without disturbing the attachment of
the cable which usually takes the place of the "slack part" of the chain.
Don't see why not--depending on the design, how easy it might be may
vary considerably. A t-track should be pretty straightforward, some of
the tubular ones I've seen could be a little more tricky depending on
the details of the mounting while others would basically be just sawing
of the tube as one end simply slipped into a formed cup. Depending on
the limit switch design, you might have to modify them a little to make
the adjustment work although I would expect enough adjustment
available. Assumes, of course, there's sufficient clearance for the
raised door if the unit is located where it would end up being. Have
to shorten either chain or cable too, of course.
The difference is only 6". You should have no problem shortening the rail
But couldn't you use a "quick-close" bracket and have the head of opener go
under the support beam?
You want to shorten the chain because the opener won't mount on the center
beam? That will cause you problems.
What you want to do is add a beam by boxing one in between the existing
beams. Put two pieces of 2x between them, then a piece between those two to
form an "H". If you shorten the chain, the door will not fully open.
If you shorten the chain, the door will not fully open.
I thought about that before suggesting he could go ahead, Edwin--in
general, you're right, but in this case he's talking of 6" off the
overall length and since the chain is doubled, it's only half that on
travel. That much shouldn't be a real problem altho he should check
clearance before proceding, obviously.
Actually the travel will be 6" regardless. The trolley is connected to
chain on one side of the rail, the chain and trolley must travel six inches
over six inches of rail to raise the door six inches. The travel is not
divided in half as you suggest. It's not a block and tackle system...
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