I have a Jessem router lift used in the Powermatic TS, but alas no
template to help make the hole in the table. I'm betting there is
someone out there who has one and no longer needs it. I live in Los
Angeles and am willing to fetch if local.
Pat Barber and I have this funny little story we could tell
you about shipping the template cross country (and back
again) to try and save a few bucks (and beat the man at his
own game) but we won't onna 'count of the em-bare-ass-ment.
If you don't find one local. buy the template from JessEm.
Don't Ask Me How I Know This.
'Sides, you may want/need it later when you build your An
Ultimate Router Table and 'sides (again), I like how the
templates all stack up around the shoppe.
lpenners email@example.com (LP) wrote in message
Place your new router plate on the table, where you want it. Butt
pieces of MDF against all sides and clamp down. Remove the router
plate from the table. Get a flush trim bit and router you opening.
You don't need a template.
Actually your method, while normally sound/a good one, will
leave you with corners the same radius as your bit. The
inserts have corners much larger.
UA100, who says, buy the template, if you can't find a free
one from a local wooddorker...
: Place your new router plate on the table, where you want it. Butt
: pieces of MDF against all sides and clamp down. Remove the router
: plate from the table. Get a flush trim bit and router you opening.
That'll make a hole exactly the size of the router plate, won't it?
Making it fall right through.
What you'd need instead is two bits. One with a bearing near the shaft,
where the bearing is larger than the diameter of the cutting portion by
some amount, say 1". Rout a hole through the table with that.
Then use a rabbeting bit with a cutter the same amount bigger in diameter
that its bearing; use this to rout a rabbet around the hole,
at a depth equal to the thickness of the routr plate.
Then hope the corners fit.
-- Andy Barss
On Fri, 14 May 2004 22:14:15 +0000 (UTC), Andrew Barss
nah. do it the other way around, but forget the rabbet bit.
position the plate where you want it on the table and surround it with
your sheet goods template stuff. if you are using a bushing instead of
a top bearing bit space your template stock off of your base plate
with rippings whose width is the difference of radius of the bit
compared to the bushing. </hella clumsy sentence>
remove the base plate and whatever spacers you used to account for the
bushing and set the router depth to equal the thickness of your
template stock plus the thickness of your base plate. note that this
doesn't cut all of the way through the table top- it makes a "mortise"
in which the base plate will sit, top flush with the table top.
if you want the corners to fit tightly, the cutter should have the
same radius as the corners of the base plate. I make the base plates
square cornered and chisel out the corners of the "mortise"
you only need to route out the width of the ledge you want to have
supporting the base plate plus the kerf of your jigsaw or whatever
you're gonna cut out the center with. no point in going further-
you'll just be reducing the support for the jigsaw and making
I didn't mean to cut all the way through the table, just the thickness
of the plate. That's just an easy way to do it.
I used the method described by Bill Hylton in Router Magic. Basically
you use a certain combination of template bushings and bit to make
your own template. The advantage is you get a template that is
exactly the same are your router plate, including any rounded corners.
Fasten your plate to a scrap piece of material. Make sure both the
plate and the template material is clamped down. Using a 1/2" guide
bushing and a 1/4" bit, router a grove around the plate. This is now
Put the template on your router table. Using a 1 1/4" guide bushing
and a 1/2" bit, carefully router a grove in your table that is the
same depth as the height of the plate (I put the plate between the
depth rod and the stop on the router to set the plunge depth more
precisely). Following the inside lines of the grooves in the table,
cut a hole in through the table to make the window.
You now have an exact match of your router plate with a 1/2" rabbet to
hold the plate.
You didn't ask for the how to but ....
I just got done mouting my Mast-r-Lift in a PM66 36" extension table. Easy
enuf to make the template by placing the lift with the top down on say 3/"8
MDF then trace the outside of the top plate. Carefully cutout with jigsaw.
Of course prior to this you need to cut the thru hole in the table. I laid
the template on the table, traced the inside then measured in 7/8" on two
sides and 3/4" in on the other two sides(check your lift demensions) then
cut out with jigsaw. Once the lift sits in the hole so the top plate sits
nicely on top of the table, place the template over it with double sided
carpet tape to hold it to the table, remove the lift and route away with a
top beaing template bit to grate the lip. Route slightly deeper than the
thickness of the
lifts topplate this will allow the lifts leveling screws to be effective.
to drill seperate holes for to access the leveling screws to do this I
the screws a ways, set the lift in place and gave a good tap to each of the
4 corners this will give a nice mark where to drill the holes
BTW I bought the template, this is the second table I've needed it and there
will be atleast one more so its a keeper. Rockler inTorrance has the
template for like $12
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