I DAGS and found nothing that would work for me.
I"m copying a design for a flower pot that is 10-sided and flared top to
bottom. You can see a dwg here:
The lines around the outside indicate a dado for steel banding. I'm not
hung on steel - polypro would be fine too.
I've built a couple of prototypes and am having a problem with the
banding. I've used galvanized strapping, but I can't get it tight
enough, even with screwing the strapping in each segment. The strapping
is too thick, and just doesn't work properly, although it does hold the
I'm only going to build a few of these, so I don't want an industrial
grade piece of machinery to do the banding. Something that is portable
and relatively inexpensive will likely serve my needs. Does anyone know
of anything that can do this job?
does it have to be banded? what about splines and glue? a band won't lay
try a packing store, like a ups shipping place. they might have heavy duty
banding machines for tying up packages, or some place that ships out pallets
Thanks to all that responded.
charlie asked if it had to be banded and if splines would do. I'm
building a bunch of these and I'd rather make it as simple as possible.
I also question whether or not splines with glue on the edges would hold
up to the constant humidity.
I looked long 'n hard at the clamp kit, RicodJour, but the price scared
me off. Too bad, cause I like the way that would look. Similar with
Sonoma's suggestion of a packaging suppler. Uline had what I wanted, but
SWMBO nixed it before I could say " But HONEY, I NEED that tool!"
I like Rob's idea of the twine/sisal rope. I guess coating with WEST
would prevent the rope from rotting? I can do that, but I think it's
gonna cost an arm and a leg. I can find one supplier for expoxy in town
and that's Lee Valley. I love epoxy but it's expensive there. I have
some sitting around and I'll try it to see how it works, tho. I'll
combine that idea with HeyBub's suggestion of banding first with the
rope and then putting the last piece in to tighten it up completely.
Perhaps WEST is overkill. Some kind of waterproofing/preservation
would be desirable.
Sign guys use all kinds of cheap ways to weather-proof their work. One
suggestion is a product by Rustoleum which is used the UV-proof and
protect some sort of 'Stone-Effect' product of theirs. It is called
Step3. It dries clear, water-based but after it sets up, it is
supposed to be some tough stuff. Thin like water, should soak into the
twine just nicely. I think it is available in small quantities.
Yup, sisal is crap, but what else is cheap? please NO polyprop...*S*
My first shot would be the plastic banding used for shipping.
Strong, doesn't rust, you don't need skilled labor.
The initial investment is about the only negative, but if amortized
over a production run, that goes away.
That's the problem. Although I said in an earlier post that I had a few
to do, it's no production run. 6-12 depending on SWMBO's wants, needs
Plastic was one thing I'd thought of, but I really don't think it would
look right on cedar. The cedar would age.....the plastic would look like
plastic. The original that I copied had black steel banding, and after a
year or so, you were hardly aware that it was there.
The rope, if done properly, should look sort of ......I don't know....naval?
Twisted wire is also an option I'd thought of, and I have a length of
stainless wire that I'm not using. It might be worth trying too.
Since you have some quantity, consider subcontracting the banding out
to an outfit that has a shipping dept and banding equipment.
Who knows what kind of a deal you can cut.
Maybe they would take some pots or need some unusual wood working
In your original post you said you were only going to build a few, and
just above you said you were going to build a bunch. A few is three
or four and that kit has 50' of banding and ten clamps - should be
enough for a few or five. The price breaks down to a bit over 10
bucks per planter if you make five, and added benefits are the planter
is now knock-down (shipping them as gifts?) and also easily
repairable. That was also the first link that I found that had what I
wanted to show you - I'm sure you could find a kit for cheaper.
The plastic banding, epoxy and twine and all that would work, but it
would look a bit too Jed Clampett for my tastes.
When I was a kid, my nephews start running when I say this, I used to make
simple cedar flowerpots for all the wimmim folks in the valley. I make a
couple models. One just stacked cedar, carved "timbers" on each other and
were nailed together. The other used wider cedar boards and were held
together with twisted wire.
I put together the sides of the flowerpot with grooves in them and just
wired them together with wire. Nothing fancy. The ladies on the various
farms loved them and bought up all I could make at the princely sum of $1.00
each, But a dollar went much further then.
Don't know if that helps, but I thought I would give it a shot.
I can't help you with equipment, but I can propose an alternative.
The perforated stainless would add a decorative touch and look better
for a lot longer than the galvanized banding.
Have you thought about many sisal rope (say about 1/8") windings?
After going round and round to fill the dado'd grooves, soak them in
WEST epoxy? (Thin enough to soak in nice)
You should be able to get them good'n-tight, I think.
Just a thought. Kinda decorative. Maybe stain the sisal first?
Unless you have access to a banding machine (Hand Tool) and a roll of
strapping material (Usually black plastic reinforced with fiber) and
clips, I'd just buy commercial pots and find another project.
Without the above equipment, your project is like pissing up a rope.
You might try like they do whiskey barrels: Make the band first - perhaps
steel strapping of the correct length and the ends welded together. Then you
pound the loop into position. In your case, maybe add a tack or two to hold
it in place.
Assuming you have a groove for the band, just add the staves to the band,
then whack the last stave into position. It would help if the wood were
really dry, that way any added moisture will expand the wood to help lock it
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