I just had a post on finishing edges but I forgot to ask --
Do they make the plywood edging that is NOT the iron on type?
I've had good luck in the past working with formica edges using
contact cement and was wondering if you can do that with plywood edges
as well? (like walnut etc).
Seems it would be a better grip -- I've had trouble with the iron on
stuff being a tiny bit loose in places.
Just buy regular veneer and use contact cement?
The iron on stuff works fine, if it's reasonable quality, your edges
are clean and smooth, and you apply the right amount of heat for the
right amount of time. I don't see a benefit in using contact cement.
Robatoy _finally_ made a New Years' resolution to make the fookin'
edge-banding tutorial he's promised for so long. Should be ready by,
what?, the end of the month at the latest.
I dont really see plain veneer any more for this purpose, but I only buy
from one location when I do buy. I have not had any problems with the iron
on using my wife's iron.... Hope she does not see this. Sewing stores
sell a plastic like pad that you can put between the iron and the
veneer/material/cloth. It helps to give more even heat, helps to prevent
scorching, and helps the iron slip along the wood/material/cloth a little
easier. My wife is a quilter so you probably have to look into a specialty
If you want to glue it on your self that would work also but would be
considerably more work and if I were to go to the trouble to add the glue to
the veneer I think I would opt to glueing on a thicker solid edge rather
than a thin veneer.
Sure, just 'wood tape' form veneer. I've seen it, don't know
exactly where to buy this week (or online).
Yep, it works fine. I used a (disposable, of course) paint roller to
apply the cement, and a razor knife followed by sandpaper to
smooth the edge.
You can make your own iron-on, too; prep the surface with
a thin film of white glue, do the same to the veneer, and let
it dry (takes at least a couple of days, you DON'T want the
veneer to have high moisture content at application time).
Then iron it down (the heat will activate the glue).
You could always make your own, just rip off what you need from a board.
The only time I use the iron on is when using polyester/PVC edging;
otherwise I do as above, coat the edge of where it goes - be sure it is
smooth - with white PVA glue, let it dry then iron on my piece (PVA is
thermoplastic). Works fine up to veneer of about 1/8" thickness.
I use contact cement if I'm using a piece of laminate for the edging, prefer
the white glue for wood...less "touchy" :)
On Mon, 11 Jan 2010 10:38:46 -0800 (PST), the infamous mkr5000
Yes, the local hardwoods guy has bare oak, birch, and a few other
flavors of wood in 1" strip for edgebanding, sold in 50 foot lengths.
I wouldn't use contact cement, I'd use yellow glue, but only after
sanding or planing the edges to make sure there wasn't much glue on
What helps luck is a habit of watching for opportunities, of
having a patient, but restless mind, of sacrificing one's
ease or vanity, of uniting a love of detail to foresight, and
of passing through hard times bravely and cheerfully.
-- Charles Victor Cherbuliez
make some strips by resawing some 3/16 then plane them down to 1/8
nail them on with 23 ga nails and use TIII glue.
Trim with CMT flush trim cutter. They make a bit that has a bit of
shear to them. They work very well.
I have always had good luck using contact glue on 1/8 strips of solid.
Just coat the plywood and the wood strip. Let it dry and place it on
the plywood. Use a rubber mallet to pound the strip firmly on to the
plywood edge. Use a with a formica bit to trim of the little excess
that you will have on 3/4 plywood. Sand a bit and it will look like a
solid piece of wood. I have a wall unit that I made over 25 years ago
and it still looks fine.
One way to improve your results with iron-on edging is to joint the
edge of your plywood. Don't take it to your jointer though, unless
you have carbide knives. Take it to your router table and with a
straight bit take of just a 32nd (so shim the outfeed fence by a 32nd
too). This gives you a really smooth, square surface and I've found
the edging goes on much better. Also, I have a piece of steel that I
rub over the edging immediately after I apply it to mush it totally
flat and set the glue. I think it helps.
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