chipboard iron-on edging tape

Lay the tape over clean dry board edge, with 2mm overhanging top & bottom.

Cover it with a teatowel or brown paper, and apply a steamless iron to it firmly. After a few seconds pull the iron away and hold the tape down firmly with a piece of scrap wood while it cools & sets. You'll get a feel for how long is needed after a few tries. When the edging is all attached, check carefully for unsecured sections and apply localised heat to melt those in.

When it's all cooled off, use a stanley knife (new blade) or a good chisel or plane to cut a neat chamfered edge at the top and bottom (and at the bullnose front). Steady hand, even line, the precise angle isn't important.

I use a fairly hot iron (but not hot enough to scorch the veneer) no tea towel - but be sure the iron's owner/operator does not return unexpectedly as there may be some surplus glue to remove from the soleplate

Are you sure that it's iron on? Most I have seen is, but I have had some real-wood effect that had to be attached with contact adhesive.

SteveW

Good point that, I've come across some lately from Wickes that I thought would be iron on, but wasn't. No Nails works OK.

Also make sure that the edge is as smooth as possible so that the glue has more than kist a few high points to stick to. This applies to iron on or stuck on.

Malcolm

Those who remembered to buy the iron's owner/operator a shiny new one as a gift today now have the old one to use for gluey things.

And for keeping the doghouse warm ...

Owain

Used this a few times ....use an iron direct on dry heat - on hot. Keep it moving with firm even pressure, trim had to get quite hot for the glue to melt. It does shrink slightly ... so I leave an overlap and sand back.

I have always used a piece of ordinary brown wrapping paper between the iron and the strip.

(Mind, I have used it that much so what others with more experience post is possibly better informed.)

================================================

Use a fairly hot iron and use it to *heat the chipboard* before applying the edging strip. I use an old, soft handkerchief to protect the edging strip from excessive heat during ironing. Leave to cool fully before trimming with a Stanley knife almost flat on the surface. Finish the cut edges with fine sand paper.

Cic.

I use model covering irons especially designed for the job, that also cope with the iron on strips.

Hot is good up till the point you scorch. If the iron is clean no issues otherwise use a sock over it or summat.

Plane back and sand back for perfect finish.

The stuff that came with my new worktop was not iron-on. Fortunately, as the missus works for a small kitchen company, they did it for me, lovely and neat, with Evostik. The boss explained to me how to do it, but it was such a convoluted process - spread glue - wait etc - then stick it perfectly, first time, that when he offered to do it for me, I jumped at the chance! :-)

JW

Thanks I have now done this, so thanks for all your help. I used a Stanley knife to trim. A couple of posters mentioned using a plane but I wasn't brave enough to try that; I would have been worried about planing the veneer off the chipboard at the same time! I suppose the other suggestion about a chisel would have worked, providing it was nice and sharp.

Another reply asked if it was iron on. I just assumed it was and luckily it was! Is there a way to tell other than try and see what happens?