Santa paid a late visit and I ended up holding some cash that
I want to apply to getting a plunge saw to cut sheet goods. None
of my current tools work well enough, though to be honest, they
work ok. I just want something that I don't have to hassle with
to get a clean and accurate cut.
I'm currently torn between the two Festool models. Of the two,
I'm thinking EQ 75, but is it worth the extra dough ($175)? I haven't
worked out the others in the equation (DeWalt, Makita) but understand
they only offer one model and they are close to the Festool EQ 55.
Does anyone have experience in making this decision and what did
you decide? Any guidance would be helpful.
Get the Festool 55 saw if you are mainly cutting plywood and 4/4 stock. It will cut up to 8/4 with the rail. But its not designed for that. If your main use is ripping 8/4 or maybe even 12/4 solid hardwood, then the Festool 75 is the saw. It is much heavier and bigger and harder to use than the light nimble 55 saw.
On Tuesday, January 15, 2013 3:35:53 PM UTC-6, MJ wrote:
On 1/15/2013 4:06 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
will cut up to 8/4 with the rail. But its not designed for that. If your main
use is ripping 8/4 or maybe even 12/4 solid hardwood, then the Festool 75 is the
saw. It is much heavier and bigger and harder to use than the light nimble 55
What he said.
I personally opted for the TS75, mainly because I wanted the extra
capacity, as my work often calls for me to be able to cover all bases,
and it makes economic sense to do that with one tool if possible.
That said, and owning a cabinet saw, I would love to have the TS55 also,
because the preponderance of my plunge saw use is indeed for sheetgood
work, which the TS55 covers nicely and without strain, while being
smaller, lighter and easier to heft for an entire day.
Bottom line, you will be tickled whichever one you decide upon.
IIRC, Leon asked me that same question when he went to buy one ... might
want to get his take on the basis for him choosing the TS75.
I went through this almost 3 years go. Festool has been making the track
saw for a very long time, while brands are doing the "me too" dance.
I pondered the 55 or the 75. Food for thought. The 55 comes with a 55"
track. Justt long enough to make a close to 90 degree cut on a standard
sheet of plywood, no way for a 60" wide piece of Baltic birch.
The 75 comes with a 75" track. These saws cut well enough to make finish
cuts and I knew that I would be breaking down sheets of plywood with mine
and I do. So eventually I was going to buy another add on track to cut
96". While 55" sounds like it is long enough to cross cut 48", you have to
place it just right to do so. There needs to be over hang the length of
the saw base at the beginning of the cut and about half the base for the
end of the cut.
So where am I going with this? If you think you will ever need the
capacity to rip a standard sheet of plywood I advise to go with the 75. It
comes with the 75" track which I always use over the 55" track for cross
cutting standard and 60" Baltic birch and you will only need to add the
shorter 55" track. The shorter 55" track is significantly less expensive
than the 75" track. I don't recall the exact prices but considering both
the 55 and 75 saw and you buy the extra track to get the 130" capacity the
savings of getting the 55 saw over the 75 saw is about $20. Check the
prices to be sure. Also you will need the 2 bars to attach the tracks to
With the caveat that there's number of accessory track sizes one can
buy to fit most any frequently used lengths. And in addition to those
accessories tracks, you can cut a longer track (carefully) to any
length you want to fit specific purposes.
The discussion being on "tools that work well",
I have a related question.
In doing pocket-joinery ala Kreg, what helps insures that "nothing
finally attaching the 2 pieces of wood with a screw (or screws). I don't
believe that the second piece of wood is normally drilled, right? Based
upon my experience, screwing two pieces of wood together does not yield
precise results without more technique (clamps, pre-drill, etc.). Is
there something remarkable about their screws?
You reading my mail?? ;)
Less than fifteen minutes ago I walked out of the shop after making four
seat frames for my bar stool project this morning, using pocket hole
I use both these types of clamps, although the Rockler clamp on the
right will do a pretty good job by itself:
I have two of them and use them over most other methods these days.
I also use this when doing a bunch of face frames for a large cabinet
job, it is inset in a piece of large plywood base:
Lots of different ways, but the first Rockler jig above may be all you
based on your recommendation I bought one of these.
I notice yours does not have the screw backed out at the end,
mine required backing the screw all the way out otherwise it rises off
the workpiece defeating the point of the clamp. I tried all different
lengths of pocket depth.
Am I the only one having this problem? Also adjusting that screw
required an unbelievable amount of torque to break the screw, it was so
Interesting chamfer on your seats.
I have never had that problem, so I don't know what to tell you. My
initial guess would be the depth of cut (drill) and the depth stop not
set correctly, but that is just a guess, with no basis in experience
> Interesting chamfer on your seats.
I have always done that to my seat web frames made for upholstery, and
the upholstery guys seem to love it ... I was under the impression it
was something that everyone did. It does make for a more comfortable to
sit in seat, and a better fitting upholstery job.
When I delivered the seat frames to the upholstery shop yesterday, the
old guy called his workers to look at the frames, and the bar stool I
brought along so he could see what I wanted ... you would have thought I
was from outerspace the way they gathered around and ohhh'ed and ahhh'ed
... "You mean you really made this chair, really???".
We tend to forget just how rare handmade custom furniture/woodwork is
these days. :)
Thought you were from outer space, eh? That would explain some things!
I know what you mean about making something that other people/tradesman
don't usually experience. I have had similar experiences. Some creative
design, intelligence and execution is definitely in short supply in this
"modern" world. Not that many craftsman around any more.
No as far as depth, I have tried much deeper and much shallower, same
results. It appears that the plastic tube is too flexible when screwed
all the way in, when it's screwed out it appears to have some side support.
I have tried deep holes using thicker pieces so I could move away from
the edge more, and it had no effect. So my guess is I got the bad one.
I have half a dozen of those and use them for a lot of other clamping
uses besides pocket holes.
I've always been partial to the "vise-grip" type mechanism for quick
change clamping ... in my childhood I somehow knew a few folks who
actually used vice grips when their gear shift broke on the steering
columns of their trucks ... kinda thought they were standard issue there
for a while. :)
I have a single pair of these listed below. They are like the Kreg
locking pliers with the smaller round swivel end and the bigger round
swivel but they are self adjusting for any thickness material with in
it's capacity. Clamping pressure remains constant at what you set it
regardless of thickness being clamped. Pretty high quality for this
type tool. I got mine at a WW show a couple of years ago and will be
buying more next go round. So easy to use that I use them left handed
and I am right handed.
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