But, where is it made?
My Bugera guitar amplifier is designed in Germany. It's built in
China. No big deal, as the amp is surprisingly well made. Still, I
get a bit suspicious whenever I see someone trying to capitalize on
the fact something may be "designed" in a location famous for its past
That issue aside, WTF is a "tracksaw", besides yet another tool I've
never heard of. I think I get the general idea, though. Instead of a
piece of scrap clamped to a workpiece to act as a makeshift fence, use
extruded alum to make a precision track. Brilliant! Seriously, I can
see why it would be popular fer cutting panels and plywood.
A German product, the Festool TS75 and TS55 were the first "Plunge
Cut"/Track saws to gain a lot of traction in the US:
DeWalt and Makita both came out with one later.
Both Leon and I are Festool junkies, and swear by the TS75-55 ... be
careful, it's a slippery slope.
Here's mine in action:
For the past six or seven years it has taken the place of a job site
table saw for me when remodeling kitchens and baths.
I also use it daily in the shop, particularly to rough cut stacks of
plywood that would be tough to handle in my small shop:
You betcha. ;)
I can lay my hands on more old doors, which would end up in the dumpster
on most remodel jobs, than I could ever use.
Most of the time we use those, and a couple of folding sawhorse, for
jobsite "work benches".
Flat, light, strong, and disposable ... in that same dumpster.
Think of it as my nod to liberal/progressive values ... gotta start
Hmmm... the Grizz doesn't stack up all that well. If you want some real ut
ility value out of a track saw, get one that can be used to dimension your
work accurately. Otherwise, you can use this:
http://goo.gl/WAMAjK or some variant of this:
Both can be used to rough dimension lumber for breakdown. I used to carry
one in my truck, and the Johnson worked surprisingly well with <<some>> saw
s, as long as no one dropped it or bent it.
When I thought I was going to be building some simple shelves for a custome
r, I was looking at the different track saws. Two competitors, Makita and
Dewalt had their pros and cons, each having their strong points, each comin
g equipped differently, making it hard to compare.
But the one that won in quality of cut every time was the Festool. Never s
aw DeWalt or Makita beat the Festool, except in price. But when comparing
apples to apples, I think Festool is actually fairly competitive in their o
ffering of this tool and after careful comparison there is only a couple of
hundred or so dollars difference between the DeWalt and Festool.
The capper on that for me was that I saw the quality of cut that Karl was g
etting on year when visiting as he had been breaking down the sheet goods a
s needed for a cabinet order. I remember thinking then, wow... if I had th
is I wouldn't need to worry about a table saw on a jobsite. And at the end
of the day, take it apart, unplug the saw and take the whole thing home wi
th no fuss at all.
But the cut edges... really, really nice. At that time he had been using t
he saw for about 3 years (IIRC) and the original blade still left a perfect
cut edge on the micro thin veneer of the birch cab ply. I think in this s
etup that the blade alone is probably worth $80 or more, a component OFTEN
overlooked in regards to the quality and accuracy of cutting with one of th
ese saws. If the Festool setup lasts that long and cuts that well with the
original blade, no doubt, the Festool would be my choice if I am put in th
at position again.
Personally, I would take my Johnson guide and Makita sidewinder all day lon
g over that Grizzly.
On 3/31/2016 10:33 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
IIRC Karl had the Johnson like guide and a Makita sidewinder when we
began working together on kitchens 10 or so years ago. IIRC the saw
carriage had roller bearings to guide the saw down the track.
I do recall having to clamp the track to the work, something that you do
not have to do with the Festool tracks and the clones. I never clamp
the track on thick material that stays relatively flat. I do use clamps
on 1/4" sheet goods.
On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 20:33:30 -0700 (PDT), " email@example.com"
I went though the same sort of decision process five years ago, or so.
I decided that the difference in price between the three was
insignificant and the Festool was more flexible with more accessories
available. I wish I'd bought the TS75, though. My TS-55 is a little
The doors I use for this purpose already have a problem, or we would
donate them to Habit for Humanity.
But, we still use them before doing so by using a sheet of 3/4"
insulation as a pad to protect them.
AAMOF, in one of the photos you can see that being done while cutting on
top of a stack of plywood.
And sinks ... got to the point where some ReStores won't even take them.
When building a house, and suddenly needing odd items, like a hard to
find Simpson product, I always check the local Habitat ReStore ... saved
my butt quite a few times, in more than one city.
I use a program/system called "Priority Matrix" for project management.
The last item on any matrix/list, when either building or remodeling,
is: "Call Habitat/schedule pickup".
Great organization, IME.
On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 10:03:38 AM UTC-4, Swingman wrote:
re: ReStore doors.
My son lived in a basement room of a friend's house. The basement stairs
went down to a landing, then you turned left or right and down 2 steps
into a room on either side of the landing. There were no doors on either
room when he (and his girlfriend) moved in. The room to the left was the
laundry room, used by all the other housemates. He (and especially his
GF) really wanted a door on his side.
The wall for the stairs ended at the landing, so the only place to hang
the door was at the end of that wall, opening into the room. That meant
that the door had to be hung so that it closed over the step and against
We went to a Re-Store, found a door for $20 and asked if they had a
jamb. The guy found a jamb and threw it in for free. Another $5 for
hinges and hardware and we were set.
We went back to the house, cut down the door and jamb - a lot - to fit
over the step and hung it. We actually hung it upside down so that the
knob was at a reasonable height when you stood on the landing. It sure
was funny looking. You had to reach down to open it from outside of the
room and up to open it from the inside. When it was open, it was something
like 8" off the floor because of the step.
It served its purpose - for the whole 3 months that he lived there. Kids!
On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 11:15:24 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
Right there with you! Some of the doors they sell should be used as pallet
skids to protect their concrete. Out of square, varying thickness across
the length, etc. And to the big box guys, a "hollow" door means hollow. L
ast retrofit of a couple of colonial style panel doors I felt like I was bu
ying a four sided frame with nothing in it.
I cut the door for length and found that to be true.
At lease their smooth hollow doors have a cardboard matrix in them. Nothin
g at all in the colonial style blanks I bought from Lowe's.
On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 12:32:13 PM UTC-4, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
et skids to protect their concrete. Out of square, varying thickness acros
s the length, etc. And to the big box guys, a "hollow" door means hollow.
Last retrofit of a couple of colonial style panel doors I felt like I was
buying a four sided frame with nothing in it.
ing at all in the colonial style blanks I bought from Lowe's.
My buddy had a tract house built a few years back. Not a bad looking
place. He told the builder that his wife wanted a cat door put in the
colonial style door going to the basement. He asked the builder what it
would cost to have him do it because he didn't want to void any warranties
by doing it himself (he's not a real handy guy). The builder told him to
try it himself first. He said he could replace the door for cheaper than
he would have to charge him in labor to put the cat door in. That should
tell you the quality of the doors they used.
I ended up helping him (read: doing it). The door did have a cardboard matr
in some sections, but the whole door was basically cardboard.
It's been about 6 years. The house is still standing and the cat door hasn'
fallen out yet. Go figure.
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