Piece marking advice wanted

I had a lot of trouble sanding pencil marks off as well...until I came across my old eraser! Much easier. I use a drafting lead holder & number 3 or 4 lead. I second the drafting tape suggestion as well, it's low tack enough not to tear paper.

Reply to
Gary DeWitt
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Was that the 14-day blue tape or the 60-day blue tape "for delicate surfaces"?

Reply to
J. Clarke

No, most any liquid will take it out but, in any event, once the piece is assembled it usually needs sanding and that pretty well takes care of things.

Reply to
Mike G

I use some of my Daughter's sidewalk chalk. Its pink and its shaped like an egg, but it works. Comes off with damp cloth, vacuum, sweaty hand, etc.

Reply to
WoodChuck34

Agreed ... I almost always use chalk for marking project parts. Biggest problem I have with it is keeping it on, not getting it off.

Reply to
Swingman

"George" wrote in news:40e087fd snipped-for-privacy@newspeer2.tds.net:

I thought about marking the edges, except that I keep cutting off the edges as I proceed.

Reply to
Hitch

Can't figure how I manage my workflow to make it possible, but I'm going to keep planning ahead and marking accordingly.

Reply to
George

as a long time user of chalk for this purpose I have adjusted my thinking recently. I had chalk marks telegraph through the finish on some birch ply cabinets- there was no stain, the finish was waterborne poly sprayed on, and though the chalk wasn't visible on the surface before spraying, the numbers showed up in the finish coat.

I still mark with chalk, but only on rough cuts on material that will be further dimensioned. after that I mark with pencil on a hidden surface or use tape.

Reply to
bridger

They sometimes bind that chalk with wax, you know. That could ruin your day.

Reply to
George

On Tue 29 Jun 2004 08:35:28a, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (Gary DeWitt) wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@posting.google.com:

Yeah, I started doing that too. I just use the eraser on the end of the pencil. For some reason the pencils disappear before the eraser wears down so that's not been a problem. I got the idea of erasing the pencil marks instead of sanding them out from, um... [cough] Bruce Johnson. But he's right, sanding seems to push the lead into the wood before it sands it off.

Dan

Reply to
Dan

I find that with most pencils, the eraser leaves a stain or mark that is worse that the lead markings. Wipe a little thinner on the pencil lead marks and they wipe away.

Reply to
Leon

Erasers are not all the same, and some do leave marks as you say. I bought a bunch of those larger erasers that fit over the top of the pencil, having checked them first to make sure they don't stain, and put one on all my shop pencils. Side benefit of this is the pencils don't roll off the bench 'cause the new eraser is oval at the base.

Mutt

Reply to
Mutt

snipped-for-privacy@aol.com (Mutt) wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@posting.google.com:

For drafting the vinyl erasers are the best, leaving little or no marks on paper, vellum, and film. I have used them on wood, but the coarser-grained varieties still retain some graphite deep in the grain.

Reply to
Hitch

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