I am painting my kitchen walls, which border on a lot of stained wood
cabinets. What do the pros do? A sash brush and a steady hand, or do they
mask the wood that should not be touched by paint.
If masking is desirable, what is the best kind of masking tape to cover the
edges of the stained wood cabinets?
I know there is the blue masking tape but I believe its only advantage is
that you can leave it on for several days. But, is the blue (expensive) tape
as good for sharp lines around wood cabinets as the cheaper, corrugated
I used some of the cheap stuff but, when I pulled it off after six hours,
the paint stuck to it and I pulled some of the paint off the walls, which
made a mess. There must be a better way!
Thanks for any input.
Good painters can freehand it, or use one of those hand-held shield
things as they go. I Am Not A Good Painter- I use masking tape. A thing
I found that helps- use something to run down the edge of the tape
before you paint to snug it up, and if you leave the tape on for several
hours, use a fresh blade in a box knife or x-acto, and slit the paint
right at the edge of the tape. With as bad as my eyes are getting for
close work like that, I'll probably have to arrange for help next time.
Try one of those "edge" machines. 4" plastic square, sponge face, handle,
and two little wheels. Makes an almost perfect straight line. If you're
going to use tape, cut the paint with a razor before you remove the tape.
When I have watched professional painters, some have painted freehand
and some masked. Generally,
a straight painted boundary isn't a perfectly straight line -
woodwork/wall, ceiling/wall - so a little wandering
isn't obvious. It takes practice, but some (like me) aren't steady
enough to paint without masking.
The colors of tape are a guide to how sticky they are. You don't want
strong adhesion on a wall because
it might pull off the paint that is there. It is a good idea to run
your nail down the edge of painter's tape
so the edge is completely adhering and paint can't get under it. Remove
tape as soon as you paint. If you
leave the tape on and allow the paint to dry, then the paint film is
continuous from tape to wall - that is why it
pulled off. Also, when pulling the tape off, pull it back onto itself
not straight out from the surface.
A little paint smudge or splatter on varnished wood cabinets isn't a big
deal. Even when dry, latex paint can
be removed as long as it is done early - hot soapy water or a
fingernail. Wipe oil paint with mineral spirits.
I tend to do freehand. The trick, other than a steady hand, is to have
a fairly WET brush. In this way, the surface tension/bead of paint
gives you a nice line. If the area is cramped, then I'll use 1" blue
tape, but pull it off in a short while (latex paint -- 5-10 minutes,
max), so it won't lift the paint. I like the round 1" or 1/2" brushes
for such work. The rectangular tapered ones are Ok too.
Many Pros don't mask, but I certainly do. It is easy to spatter paint
anywhere and I have seen spattered paint left by a Pro.
Use "Painters tape." It's a little more $ but won't leave residue
like regular masking tape.
I use a smaller brush and hand paint to the edge. I still mask off
protected areas but never paint to the masking tape edge. The blue
tape is really not expensive, your time is. Don't use the cheap
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