Hi All, I'm about to start painting my bathroom. I covered the door
trim and baseboard with the blue painter's tape. Last time, I pulled
up the blue tape minutes after the second coat of paint. I usually
get some paint onto the tape and I was afraid leaving it until paint
dried would pull up more paint in the process. This time I would like
to check with you guys on what is the correct thing to do.
Should I pull up the blue painter's tape very soon after the 2nd coat
of paint or should I wait until the paint is dry?
Thanks a lot!
Yes, remove the paint right away - before the new coat of paint sets.
If left until the paint dries, the paint film is part of the tape and
the tape can pull away part of the paint film. When I have to tape a
newly painted surface, I wait until the new paint is cured. Always pull
the tape back on itself, not straight out from the surface - helps keep
it from pulling off new paint. I'm always careful to press hard along
the edge of the tape so that paint doesn't seep under it.
On Tue 15 Sep 2009 05:45:05p, email@example.com told us...
Also, it's not a bad thing to get the second paint on the blue tape, but
it's important if at all possible to paint in a direction away from the
tape. This helps insure that no paint will be forced under the edge of the
I always figure the tape is my 'safety net' to catch when I get the shakes
and flub up. I try not to get too much paint on the tape itself so as to
keep from building too big a bond between the tape and the painted surface.
Then, in the case of where I have had to (or accidently) get more paint on
the tape to the point it might pull off paint, I use a sharp utility knife
to score the paint at the tape. This works best in areas where there is a
right angle between the painted surface and the tape, such as along door
casing or baseboard.
Almost immediately after painting, for sure before the paint dries.
For most junctions, you can make better use of the paint pad with the two
little wheels on it. For those of us who've never mastered cutting in, this
gizmo is a miracle. I just painted four rooms and a hall with doors,
closets, windows, etc., with ceilings a different color than the walls, and
used no tape at all - just the pad thingy.
If the trim you are covering up is stained wood this is what I do.
After I put the tape down I go around with a brush and clear
polyurethane and seal the tape. this prevents the paint from seeping
under the tape. After I'm finished painting I run a utility knife
between the wall and the tape to cut the seal. This make for a nice
clean line between the wall and the trim.
I also use the pad with the wheels, and agree it's a miracle tool.
There are some nuances to using it that takes a bit of practice (but
less than other ways to do it) -- making sure every little bristle on
the pad gets paint while the wheels NEVER get paint on them (try
loading it from the open tray of paint where you can hold it flat over
the surface and slide it around a bit)
The one I have doesn't have a foam pad; it looks a bit like velcro
with short bristles; got it at Home Depot. You still have to roll
over the area as close as you can get, but you need to do that with
brush cut-in also.
Hmm. Several ideas:
1. You may not have had enough paint on the pad.
2. You can go back and forth with the device until all the area that needs
paint gets paint.
3. The pads are moderately adjustable, so you may have to move the pad a
smidgen to match the area you're attacking.
Dampen the pad with water (latex paint) before loading the pad (first
time) with paint. Load the pad with paint from a roller pan.
Have a damp rag available (back pocket) to wipe wheels (/walls/messes)
on the roller.
A trim line at , say, a ten foot ceiling will not be very visible.
Most people don't look up!
The wheeled pads do need some attention to detail..
I always remove as soon as I can so the paint doesn't cure.
If I have to leave it on for a second coat, I cut the junction with a
utility knife to separate the paint on the wall (or trim) from the
paint on the tape.
A pro painter told me about a great trick. Using very little paint on
the brush, wipe it on the wall in a place you will be painting with the
same colour so that the brush has very little paint left. Run this over
the tape edge and the surface being painted. Do about 8 - 10 feet. By
the time you are done you can come back and paint over it with the
thicker coat and then remove the tape.
You should get almost flawless lines/ edges.
Umm, if you're utterly incompetent at cutting in, how about a straight metal
edge which you slide along the wall as you paint? I've never understood
painter's tape. It's nuts. You won't know if you painted under it until you
remove it, and then it's too late. What's so hard about cutting in with a
brush? Ifyou have shaky hands, use a smaller brush. Failing that, slide a
metal edging tool along the edge, moving as you go. It's not exactly
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