Long story short, I need to attach baseboard molding to a sheetrock wall.
The problem: instead of having a 2x4 behind the drywall to nail it into,
there's concrete. So we're talking 1/2 inch drywall butted up against
solid concrete. I'd rather not use glue/silicone because removing the
baseboards some day would in theory destroy the wall too. Any ideas?
Why would you have to remove the baseboards? In any event repairing
drywall is not big deal. If you're dead set on finding an
alternative, you could use an old method for attaching molding to
brick walls. Drill holes, insert wood dowel plugs, and nail into the
If you're talking about horizontally, there's only one side out of
four that would normally need better access by removing baseboard, but
it's still not mandatory. There's a 1/2" of expansion space under the
baseboard, and that provides enough wiggle room to get that last strip
of flooring into place.
If you're talking about vertically, the new flooring is thicker than
the old, and there's not enough room under the baseboard, use a jamb
saw to undercut the baseboard. If the new flooring is thinner, use a
piece of lattice before applying the base shoe, or mill an extended
shoe (difference would rarely be more than 1/4" to 1/2").
Jamb saw for 60' of baseboard? And it will look like crap anyway done like
that. Technically, yes you could do it, but removing the baseboard,
finishing/painting while it is off, and repositioning it to the proper place
is a mch more professional job. If a contractor tried to cut the basebaord
I'd kick his ass right out.
Maybe we're talking at cross purposes. I don't install 3" ranch for
baseboard. I build three piece baseboards. New stuff is typically
1x6, and old stuff around here is frequently 1x8, plus trim. If
you're talking the small stuff, hell pull it all out and toss it.
Can't do that economically with the big stuff.
The jamb saw works just fine. You can go around the entire room in
ten minutes, no problem. The cut edge is hidden by molding, just like
those nasty gaps on either side of a door frame are covered by nice
casing. There's a little cleanup required in the corners after the
jamb saw, but that's hidden, too.
Done my way there is no painting other than the baseboard and new
shoe. I have yet to remove a baseboard that didn't require
substantial cleanup and repainting, and almost always touch up
painting of the wall. Sometimes you have to paint the whole wall if
you remove the baseboard. I'm not trying to make more work for
myself, even if I'm getting paid for it, unless it improves the
place. Pulling and replacing isn't improving. To me, it's just more
BTW, Edwin, if you ever saw my work I strongly doubt you'd be kicking
anything but a beer back with me after the day was over. You bring
the sausage and ribs, I have a killer grill.
OK, we're talking apples and oranges. With quality baseboard built up as
you do, that is possible. I forgot there is still some houses built the
"right" way. With the typical baseboard molding used today, with no shoe,
then yes, it has to be removed.
Use Ambroid Cement. Dries quick, sticks to most things, porous or
not, holds well, breaks off pretty easily when one wants to. Comes
in a small tube and a big tube. Red with a tinge of orange, and white.
VEry useful for many things.
Sometimes I glue things with a dab or two of it and then put expoxy on
afterwards, over a larger surface. Easier than trying to clamp the
parts together before or after the expoy is put on.
only available in model and hobby stores.
I would test it on a piece of scrap drywall because I've never used it
on that. It might take off the paint, but I doubt it, and certainly no
more than that. But test it.
I'd actually like to know as well... Something that will keep them in place,
but won't hold so much that they'll let go if I were to pry at them.
Definately not liquid nails... Rubber cement seems a bit on the weak side...
What to use?
I ended up using Liquid Nails and 1-1/2" finish nails. My intention was to
let the nails penetrate the drywall to help hold the molding in place while
the Liquid nails set. To my surprise and delight, the nails actually
penetrated the concrete pretty well in most cases. The Liquid Nails adds
some assurance that the concrete won't release the nail at some point. But
I used it sparingly since the nails seemed to grab pretty well.
On Tue, 19 Jun 2007 22:39:12 -0500, crabshell wrote:
Should never need to remove baseboards.
My house was built in 1968 and I have never removed any baseboards nor do
I plan to. You can spot tack the baseboards with adhesive to the wall if
they don't have a bow facilitating an easier removal in the future. You'd
lose a little sheetrock but would still be well able to re-attach them
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