By mistake, I applied a medium strength 3M Painters Blue Tape on a
fine-sddBy mistake, I applied a medium strength 3M Painters Blue Tape
on a fine-paper wallpaper in order to protect it while I painted the
crown moulding. As a result, when I began to remove the blue tape, it
took a couple of patches of wallpaper off the wall.
I was eventually able to get the tape off using a heat gun on low.
While getting the hang of heat/speed, I bubbled/blistered a 2 inch by
1/4 inch wide patch of new moulding paint with the heat gun.
My questions are:
1. What brand/type masking tape can I use on fine-paper wallpaper to
avoid pulling off the top layer of paper when removing the tape?
2. How can I fix the edges of the paint blister and finish it so it'
TIA for any tips, suggestions, and comments.
You can't really, but if I had to try, I'd poke a few tiny holes and
squirt in some carpenter's glue through a syringe, then rig up
something to keep pressure against the bubbled paint. If the molding
is complicated/detailed, you might have to pull a mold from another
section and then use that to clamp the glue-repaired-paint-bubble in
place. Depends on how badly you want to avoid attempting a paint
touch up. Since it's new molding paint, and presumably there's some
leftover paint floating about, I'd head right down the touch up paint
3M is a great company. If it says 3M on the package, it's a good
product. That's the rule of thumb. Whether it's the right product
for the application and you're the right person for the job is another
matter entirely! ;)
Yep. I really boned that patch of paint with the heat gun. I will
continue to try the paint touch-up route since all the moulding is
newly painted. So the colors will match. The moulding is a bit
complicated and not symmetric (basically a "wavy" Colonial design).
But the slightly bubbled area is on a horizontal edge perpendicular to
the wall so a small piece of scrap wood would do the job.
I have half dozen small (about twice the width of a pencil point)
blisters that are just about unnoticeable. The bigger problem is the
area about 2" x 1/2" where the paint blistered and broke through out
the patch. I cut away the raised and broken paint and tried white glue
that pulled the edges up a bit, but it still looks ragged. I've tried
a razor blade on the edges that helped just a bit. I also painted the
patch hoping the drying paint would "pull up" the edges, but with no
I will try the stronger carpenters glue. I was wondering if very fine
400-600-grit sandpaper would take the edge down???
This is your solution. Sand carefully until the edges of the bare spot are
feathered, then repaint. Go ahead and repaint a few inches beyond the spot
so it's less noticeable. Spot-repairing paint is an art, so practice first
on a piece of scrap wood or an out-of-the-way area. 220 grit is plenty
No offense to 3M, but I got some semi-capable person who suggested
the "orange" labeled Blue tape that was just a tad less adehesive than
the "blue" labeled tape. The person went on to suggest acetone that I
was pretty sure would have a negative effect on the wallpaper printed
design and/or the paste holding it on the wall. When I asked about
using water they thought that was a good idea, but it turned out to
have little to no effect to soften the tape adhesive.
The hot air gun was their suggestion. I put off using the gun to last
because I was afraid the heat would have a negative effect on the
wallpaper. It softened the adhesive enough to slowly pull the tape
away from the wallpaper "at a 45 degree angle," which was the second
good suggestion from 3M. If I were more knowledgable, I would have
figured a way to hold a long blade taping tool between the moulding
and wallpaper to make a clean break line to protect the new paint,
while applying the heat gun, and pulling the tape.
So bottom line, I'm glad I callede them. They provided a lot of
suggestions that would work on a painted surface, but some were
questionable for wallpaper.
3M makes five grades of painting tape. Look on side of roll at dots. White
tape is like paste-its for delicate surfaces, then smooth blue, rough blue,
forget then light green for rough surfaces like brick.
Thanks for all the tips and ideas. I've finally got the large blister
about 98% fixed. I painted the trimmed blistered edges with an oil
based primer. This seems to have dried out and stiffened the
"whiskers" at the edge enough so I could sand the them off with a 220
wood sandpaper. The edges smoothed out enough where I could then
prime the blister again and then put on a finish latex coat. Since
the patched crown moulding area is 7 1/2 feet high and not over a
dooway or in a high traffic area, the patch is almost unnoticeable
unless you stand there and look for a while.
Just for future reference, and from finding out the hard way, paint
(both alkyd and water-based) will feel dry quite some time before it is
cured (hard). Takes alkyd, I believe, sometimes two weeks to cure. So
sanding before alkyd is cured and is still somewhat "gummy" makes it
difficult to get a smoothe surface. Best to wait. Sanding latex
smoothely has always been a problem for me. It tends to "roll". For
that reason, I have always used alkyd for doors and woodwork, as well as
for kitchens and baths. Easier to clean, harder to stain, but the
whites tend to yellow. It is also important to mix paint completely
just prior to starting each job, even if it was "shaken" at the store.
By not mixing, you can get differences in the color and/or gloss.
Happy to hear you got your problem fixed.
Thanks for the tips. I would have waited a while longer, but the
moulding is in the dining room and we needed to get the job patched so
we can set-up for Christmas (which is an extravaganza of epic
I'll keep an eye on the patch and if it changes for the worse, I'll
redo it giving the job more time to set after priming.
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