It is suspend with bolt through the rails for the fence
There are cast iron router extensions, but mine is the high pressure laminate type but they do not have it anymore.
So it's the same as the stock table, though the legs at the far end are on the same frame with casters under the frame and saw. Level?
That's more or less the top I have on a separate cabinet (JessEm, though).
That's the cast wing/table I was looking at. I didn't want to give up my wing and it wouldn't fit my lift anyway.
There are no legs at all, it is part of the saw the end that butts up to the saw is flat like the back of a cabinet. Flush with the top surface of the saw, it extended twelve inches beyond the old wing width. There are four lag bolts attaching it to the fifty two inch fence rails, no need of legs.
Sounds like it has to sag. Cast is stiff and bolts can be torqued down. Laminate, not so much.
My table saw router table is homemade of melamine with an aluminum insert. It’s pocket screwed to a 2 1/2” deep poplar frame. 1 side of the frame is bolted to the edge of the cast saw top, 2 sides are bolted to the rails. No sag at all.
I mounted the power box/switch from a previous bench top router table to the right front corner of the frame. Something like this switch but mounted horizontally to front rail of the frame. It doesn’t stick out beyond the frame rail and it’s easy to reach.
Nope it has a frame underneath, top is about an inch thick.
And that jig, the iBox works on a TS also. Can you name another jig that only works in a router table slot?
Absolutely!!! But you do not need a miter slot to guide the sled, just use the fence as the guide for a sled/square piece of plywood with out a miter bar.
Yes it does. Why would you think that it would not? The rail/work simply sits on the router table top and is pushed through with the plywood/sled. A fresh piece of ply even asks as a zero clearance back up for no tear out.
Sorta, to cope then ends of the rails you don't need to have the work on top of the sled. Put the work on the router table surface and push it through with the sled.
Some sleds are. My sled is simply a square piece of square plywood to push the work perpendicular to the fence. My plywood push sled is normally about 10' square.
This is just another sales pitch for selling a sled.
All you need is a square piece of plywood to sit behind the work piece and push it through.
Hint, the work does not have to sit on the sled. It sits in front of the sled/square plywood and is pushed through by the plywood.
True, you don't *need* to use the top of the sled, but I think safety (or call it comfort) is the biggest pro of doing it that way. Secured both front & rear, held down tight, firm
2 hand feed, etc.When I've used mine for that operation, I liked that I could just drop the next piece between the backer blocks, clamp it down and push it through.
There's nothing wrong with doing it "free-hand" i.e. with a piece of plywood. Using the the top of the sled just makes me feel more comfortable, which equates to me feeling safer.
Comfort is a perceived notion for these sleds. I see the "cope sleds" as being more of a PIA to set up and also to insert the next piece and remove and so on. I could be wrong.
But simply using a piece of plywood, the thickness of the work being coped, is very much like using a miter gauge to push a rail over a stacked dado to cut tenons on a TS.
No clamps necessary.
My method of coping with plywood is to use a relative large 10 "square piece of plywood.
I place the rail to be coped against the front of the plywood and hold it there, in a clamping motion, with my left hand and fingers, well away from the cutter. My right palm is against the back edge of the plywood pushing forward. Works great.
But if you feel safer using a clamping coping sled by all means use that.
The point is that the piece has to be held firmly against the fence so the fence is the key, not the slot. That's harder to do if the sled rode in the miter slot. Can't have both. You'd have a similar situation as using both a fence and miter gauge on a saw.
Two hands, both ABOVE the bit.
How do you cope at an angle? Use the table saw and miter gauge to "unsquare" your plywood?
If I do that with my stacked cope&stick shaper cutters, it will cut into the sled when coping, as the bottom cutter is wider than the stock.
I use this:
Holding every thing in place is not an issue.
FWIW I very very often use the miter gauge and rip fence together for making cabinet door rail stub tenons and rabbets for drawers corners.
I did this last month when making rabbets for corner joints for 3 drawers and 8 stub tenons for a sewing table for a customer. I built a hutch for NailShooter's significant other last fall. 6 drawers with rabbets for corner joints. 32 stub tenons for drawer fronts and cabinet doors.
Then the kitchen rehab that I did for a customer in the spring of last year. 27 doors that had decorative rails and stiles. That was 108 passes through the router table being pushed with a piece of plywood. and then on the TS about 24 drawers, 96 rabbets cut with the miter gauge and the drawer side ends referenced against the sacrificial fence.
I have been doing this type cutting on the TS and the router table for
20+ years on a regular basis. I have never felt the need for anything better, or more complicated.
Essentially, yes. Fortunately I have never had to cut anything but a 90 degree angle for a rail on the router table but if I had to do this I would simply cut the front support edge of the plywood to be at an angle to compliment the angle on the end of the rail.
But then again, I have never have come across the need to cut anything but 90 degrees in these situations.
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