panel type for bathroom cabinet

The key to working with solid wood is the joinery, not necessarily the finish.

If your plan is to use frame and panel, then solid panels are fine (don't glue them into the frame, of course).

If your joinery constrains the movement across the grain, then regardless of finish, you'll have issues.

Assuming that the 10-1/2" dimension is the cross-grain size then I don't see any insurmountable problems with wood movement. Yes, it will move but if you use proper procedures and don't glue it in place and leave enough wood in a sufficiently-deep slots then it shouldn't matter. Personally I'd use 1/2" stock and taper the inside of them panel to fit (as in many Shaker pieces). I've got any number of panels done this way and have had no problems. BTW, no matter how you do it, it would be best to finish the panel before assembly to make sure that, when the wood does move it will not show unfinished surfaces.

snipped-for-privacy@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal) wrote in news:paHJB.33005$ snipped-for-privacy@fx09.iad:

I had planned to use mortices and stub tenons.

I would advise to prefinish the inner panel before assembly, including the edges and end grain. This will help to reduce movement.

replying to sawdustmaker, Iggy wrote: You're good to go with John McGaw and Leon, they're spot on!

Iggy wrote in news:qaMJB.64763$ snipped-for-privacy@fx08.am:

Thanks. TUrns out that I don't have enough wood forr the panels so I'll have to get plywood anyway. I'll use the rest on another project later. BTW -- 1/4 sheet of A1 mdf walnut ply is $83 with tax. :(((( So I gave them my right foot, ankle, and lower leg.

Man, did they see YOU coming!