Baltic birch vs. Poplar for Bathroom Cabinet

I am building a built-in painted cabinet for one of our bathrooms (which includes a shower).

I am planning on using poplar for the face frames but was wondering whether it would be OK to use Baltic Birch for the sides.

Specifically, my concern is whether Baltic Birch plywood would be more likely to absorb water and swell/delaminate in a bathroom/shower situation. (Note: there shouldn't be any direct water contact except from steam/humidity and the occassional 'puddling' on the floor that could wick up into the end-grain)

Note All surfaces will be primed & painted.

Reply to
blueman
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I would not use poplar for face frames if I could help it. "Poplar" ain't what it used to be and is, IME, problematic from a dimensional stability stand point.

Birch, white or red, might be a better choice, IMO.

Nothing wrong with Baltic birch in that environment ...or a good import B2 paint grade birch plywood will do just as well for unseen panel sides for a bit less.

Reply to
Swingman

I wouldn't worry about it. It's well made plywood and the primer and paint will seal it completely. I wouldn't hesitate to use it.

-- Self-development is a higher duty than self-sacrifice. -- Elizabeth Cady Stanton

Reply to
Larry Jaques

---------------------------------- Any idea why the current supply of Poplar is not dimensionally stable?

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

Especially since the plywood wouldn't/shouldn't be in direct contact with the floor.

Max

Reply to
Max

Yes... my plan is to put it on top of a 1.5" base (made of 2x4's) which will be well covered by the 3" molding...

Reply to
blueman

I didn't realize Poplar wasn't stable... Is this just an issue in humid environments like a bathroom or do you not use poplar at all anymore?

Also, Birch seems to be quite pricy - about 3-4 times as expensive as poplar (when bought milled) and almost twice as expensive as oak and more than cherry

Seems almost a crime to pay that much for something that will be painted... Is Poplar really that much of an issue?

Reply to
blueman

Since when? Why?

Reply to
-MIKE-

Yes. Or any other plywood.

Reply to
dadiOH

Swingman wrote in news:4vmdnZrPM4TGRUfTnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:

What about that water resistant green MDF you recently talked about?

Reply to
Han

Look around you Lew, almost every thing in this country that is tainted by corporate MBAthink is shit, including MOST current products of the lumber industry.

Indigenous new growth and/or plantation grown wood, as poplar is wont to be these days, with an unusually high moisture content for a tree to start with, coupled with the corporate MBAthink, equals wood that is inferior and improperly dried for most uses as cabinet/furniture "lumber" ... although great for pulp.

Poplar has a high ratio of tangential to radial shrinkage, number one cause drying defects, so how is this handled by the corporate mindset?

Ship it over the recommended moisture content and let the consumer worry about it, which means in the end that a high percentage of what is sold and used for cabinets/furniture will eventually exhibit dimensional instability.

Basically, and in a sense, poplar has become the hardwood version of new growth fir and pine ... an unacceptable percentage will turn into a pretzel when it reaches equilibrium and not restrained in some manner.

I decided a few years ago to no longer waste my time on the wood in any cabinet or furniture project. If you see a paint grade wooden door, or a bowed face frame on a painted cabinet, and it is warped, you can bet it is poplar.

Further notable is that not a single door supplier I know will use poplar for paint grade door frames these days, not one! You can't even order it as a door option any longer in this neck of the woods.

Reply to
Swingman

I don't make cabinets out of mdf. MDF is much too heavy and does not hold fasteners well enough to stand the test of time.

High grade, water resistant MDF in painted doors and drawer fronts in some styles, like European slab doors and drawer fronts, yes.

Some things simply work well for a targeted purpose ... like using pocket hole joinery for cabinet face frames.

Reply to
Swingman

If price is an issue (not all that much of an investment in the face frame material for one bath cabinet) go with red oak and paint it.

Reply to
Swingman

Yeah, I got a bag of 100 nylon nail-in feet at a garbadj sale and they'll last my lifetime and then some.

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-- Self-development is a higher duty than self-sacrifice. -- Elizabeth Cady Stanton

Reply to
Larry Jaques

I no longer use Poplar. My choice in California is Soft Maple.

Reply to
Rich

The cabinet "should" set on a base. (That's how I've always built mine; YMMV)

Max

Reply to
Max

Yes, and isn't that called a Toe Kick???

Reply to
Rich

It's my understanding that "Finnish Birch" is the same as "Baltic Birch" except the FB uses exterior glue and the BB does not. You might want to consider the FB.

Reply to
Larry Blanchard

That'll work just fine ... smart man!

Most folks just look at the upfront costs ... those who do it for a living look at the long term costs of callbacks that come from not using a suitable material in the first place.

Reply to
Swingman

Unless these are being installed on the back deck or in a sauna, plain old plywood is going to be fine.

Reply to
-MIKE-

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