Once again I come before the collective wisdom and knowledge of the
Growing tired of the population explosion here in Florida, we began thinking
of a different lifestyle. (plus taking advantage of the explosion of local
housing cost could mean no mortgage, or almost none!)
Since my Mother was born in Tennessee (Pulaski, raised in Lewisburg) and I
have fond memories of a summer there, that's where we decided to look.
We found 94 acres that hasn't been timbered (select cut then) for 50 years
or so that has a rental house on it (in need of substantial work). Located
in Chester Co. Tn. near Henderson.
I'm faced in deciding which type of construction for a home and for a shop.
The romantic in us likes the thought of a log home, the more practical side
thinks CBS, stick built or even maybe manufactured... modular or prefab
My problem is a search for a source that could give an approximate per
square foot cost for the various types of construction.
The good news: the Shop comes FIRST! (we intend to utilize it first for
storage until the house gets built, assembled or towed in... whichever
decision is reached.
Any assistance in a SWAG for me to try and compare the above building costs
will be greatly appreciated.
Maker of Fine Sawdust and Thin Shavings
If I was building a home today. it would use Insulating Concrete Forms.
(ICFs) They are extremely energy efficient, reasonable cost to build with,
hurricane resistant, and have even stood up to no interior damage in a
tornado. (siding was torn off) www.polysteel.com www.greenblock.com
You can have lots of quiet, save 50% on heating and cooling costs. You can
build from $120 to $200 a square foot, depending on what you want in the
<snip of nice links, good information, Thanks>
That is one I hadn't thought of, to add to my confusion <G>.
I have done searches using variations of: cost comparison of construction
but found nothing to even offer relative costs (item currently interested
in). The log sites don't seem to really list the pros and cons of that style
building... They tout energy efficiency and hint at needed regular
maintenance, but beyond that I can't find much on pricing (except kits,
Thanks for your help, Edwin.
If you have not been doing research here is a site for some good
Air infiltration, good insulation (not fiberglass) and low E windows
can make a huge energy savings difference. I know the log homes have
the foam between the logs but the few I have seen developed some might
big cracks between the logs. I guess maybe it is not as big of a
problem if all the logs are kiln dried first.
On Sun, 21 Aug 2005 07:30:24 -0400, "Thomas Bunetta"
Where in FL are you? I'm in Ormond Beach. Real estate has gone up
about 30% since we bought here two years ago. I have a nearly 25 year
history in FL stretching back to 1956 (pre revolution).
For us Federal retirees, TN is very attractive because it doesn't tax
your retirement income (NC, another area we were considering, does).
We came very near moving there (far southeastern area). How we wound
up here is an involved story.
I can't help you with your actual question. For one thing, I'm too far
removed, timewise, from anything I had learned on the subject when we
were looking up there 6-8 years ago. For another, since I bought this
30 year old frame with brick veneer that I'm remodeling, I quit
looking at that stuff altogether. Now I just follow materials costs,
and frankly, I'm pretty much done with that, since my major work is
Got'cha beat! I'm a Cracker... been here since '48 (pre most everything!)
Wrinklewood, (on the map they insist on calling it Englewood <G>)
West coast, about half way between Sarasota and Ft. Myers.
Here it has more than doubled, and I want to sell before the market swings
to a buyer's market (SOON).
Lucky you! I thought five years ago when we built here we were done with
moving (excepting the ol' folks home).
Now I gonna do it again!
Don't know of your financial situation. But if you want cheap, but sound
building, be ready to do most of it with friends and family. Start with
earth sheltered housing. There are many alternative houses out there. Made
with tires, and filled with packed dirt, concert with soda cans/glass
bottles. Rammed earth, slip-form concert. Many more. Just remember, to
keep cost down, your labor goes up, fast.
The above are all good suggestions, but would probably require me to do it
myself. And that isn't possible.
I hope I didn't come across wrong in post 1... I'd like to compare the
general per square foot costs for each type of home, log Vs. block, etc.
And for that matter pros and cons of log homes (contractor built/assembled).
On Sun, 21 Aug 2005 07:30:24 -0400, the opaque "Thomas Bunetta"
I did the same thing 3 years ago and bailed from LoCal. I haven't had
a day of illness since then, either. Oregon agrees with me.
I have fond memories of growing up in Arkansas, but I sure as
hell wouldn't want to move back there. YMOV. ;)
Big city of 5,670? 54% female? Sounds good. I recently
moved North to a city of 23k and it's now getting too
big for my tastes, though I live in the county. I'm 3
miles outside city limits and prefer it that way.
Well-built modulars and prefabs can be nice. Manufactured homes are
all strangely ceilinged and spongy floored trailers. No thanks!
Call the various mfgrs in the Henderson/Jackson area. They'll
tell you what they have and how much they charge to put 'em up.
Go with a 40x80 steel building to start. You can always add more s/f
later. <vbg> Insulate what you need to by building what amounts to a
SIP home inside it.
Wait until the colder season and you'll get a much better deal, when
they're looking for sales and work. Have a slab poured in the hot/dry
months, then build later.
That's my dream, anyway. My 2-car shop is still too crammed to get
anything done. I spend an hour rearranging crap just to get to tools
to work on the current project.
Don't call FL locals for that. Definitely call folks in the local TN
area you plan to settle, maybe from Memphis to Jackson to Henderson.
Check with locals on who's reliable and who gouges. These folks (TN
locals and TN builders) can give you the real costs and timing
Googling for "modular home TN" and "prefab home TN" brings these +:
Lovely homes from FL @ $17.95 s/f. <g>
http://www.buildingsystems.org/tenness.html Nice list, mostly NC!
Let us know what you end up with, Tom.
Jack Kevorkian for Congressional physician!
http://www.diversify.com Wondrous Website Design
I'm currently building a home 260 miles north of San Francisco.
Traditional frame house. Cost of construction is $85/ft-sq (nor
including land). The lumber mill is one mile from my front door, so
perhaps that is why costs are low. I have a contractor, and he is ever
a pro. Compared to building methods here in Los Angeles, my place
should be featured in Fine WoodWorking Magazine. I'm impressed.
In a few months I'll undertake construction of my 25x38-foot wood shop.
The lumber mill offered me a "garage package" that includes ALL lumber
(even trusses), nails, doors, windows, hardware, for about $9/foot. It
would have been $7.50/foot, but I specified 10-foot walls to get a high
My contractor advised me to go this route on my shop project, rather
than buying dismantled barns, or otherwise "bottom-feeding" methods. If
you can get land in a lumber region, prices are low.
As a location, that hadn't even occured to me.
The scenery might be nice, but SWMBO is too good to consider other avenues.
Kida my thoughts as well, but for the "T-Rex 3 module" model we looked at in
Tn. was 80K and up for turn key.
The next trip up will be to meet with some of the same, and maybe an
architect or engineer to plan site prep.
I have a 30X36X14 Miracle steel truss building now and have some leak
issues, minor but annoying. I'd figured 40X60 if I can pull it.
Alas timing won't allow for such finess in planning, and this whole thing
needs to flow like dominoes (If you see Murphy, SHOOT the SOB!).
It gets that way in my shop/ATV garage/mower storage and yard tool haven. In
fact it was a call to the local permit folks that initiated my present
course. I wanted to build a lean-to first for lumber and storage of . above
mentioned things in; I was told no permit possible. Since the last round of
hurricanes, I'm not allowed more than 200Sq.Ft of out-building... larger and
it must be in like materials as the main building.
My shop is grandfathered!
Right about now a headache thinking of all the details!
Thanks for sharing, and for the links.
On Sun, 21 Aug 2005 19:33:34 -0400, the opaque "Thomas Bunetta"
C - Both of the above.
Y'all don't think Tennessee is no better, do ya?
It's the SOUTH, fer chrissake. Bugs and hummerditty.
You can have it!
PW noted. <snicker>
See what turns up along Mike Hide's suggestion of a
free-for-the-towing ranch home.
They have those in TN? <duckin', big time>
OK, take the little one with you for the tractors, storage, and such.
You were lucky for that, anyway. Those permit folks can be nastyass
sumbishes, can't they?
Before I left Vista, I got a real ASS full of them. The house was a
single home on 1/3 acre lot, zoned C-200 (up to 20 units per acre).
I was on propane and septic, but they had put in gas lines to the
property when they put the street through.
The realtor went to the City offices and found the price for running
sewer line to the house at $50/ft (400+ feet). Zoning said we could
put up 5 units on that lot, a big selling point.
2 months later, when the 4th serious potential buyer checked, the
price of sewer was at $100/ft and zoning said 3 units max, with
parking. I'd been HAD by the city once again!
I lost at least $70k on the sale because the Shitty of Vista squatted
on me once again. The first time was when they let the contractor who
developed the housing above me to use an alternative routing for the
sewer, effectively keeping my property totally isolated from sewer. I
had OKed giving him the front strip of property to him for putting me
on sewer and sidewalks, about $6,000 extra for him in exchange for a
4-20' swath 150' long, well worth it. The area across from me was a
City park and would get no sewer installed, the area behind/below me
was on a closed loop system which had been poorly engineered and could
handle no more connections. His choice to route around me left my
property with only one route to sewer, close to $50,000.
The contractor got an OK to do 2:1 grading for the slope above me but
they did 1:1 instead. That caused mudslides during an extra heavy rain
we had one year and mud filled my back yard. I didn't note that it
also filled the crawl space under the house until years later when the
termite guys came to inspect. He told me that he'd have to excavate to
finish inspecting, but that the house had more termites than any other
building he'd inspected in his 20+ years of pest control. His quote
was something like $6,500+ to start.
LoCal bad for me? Just perhaps. <sigh>
If it weren't for jumping to conclusions, some of us wouldn't get any exercise.
www.diversify.com - Jump-free website programming
On Mon, 22 Aug 2005 17:02:16 -0400, the opaque "Thomas Bunetta"
It snows in TN, Tom. Check the monthly stats on www.weather.com .
A buddy's MIL lives there and his wife drives down to see her
every time one of them is sick. In the winter, snow is a part of the
drive from D.C. to BF, TN.
Ah, you betcha.
Hell, no! Why do you suppose I'm still so sore about it? :-/
--== EAT RIGHT...KEEP FIT...DIE ANYWAY ==--
http://www.diversify.com/stees.html - Schnazzy Tees online
Well no doubt it snows there, the difference is in how much and for how
long... The folks we spoke with said some years there was none, and when it
does snow, it seldom accumulates to a significant degree. One policeman said
1" to 3" and it usually was gone in a day or two.
The weather link showed precipitation and temperature averages, record lows
and highs, etc. but didn't elaborate on whether the precipitation was rain,
sleet, snow or ice storm.
The average lows were from 27 to 31 AFAIRemember.
On Tue, 23 Aug 2005 06:54:39 -0400, "Thomas Bunetta"
The problem is, for those accustomed to driving in snow, 1-3" doesn't
represent any sort of impediment whatsoever. For those who aren't (and
I'm guessing a cracker isn't) 1" is enough to close schools and fill
the ditches with vehicles.
One of the funniest stories from my daughter when she was in college
(grew up in the Chicago area, went to college at Southern Illinois U;
Carbondale, way south) was the first time they had a snow when she was
there--about 1". She called up saying, "ohmigod, they're crazy here.
They closed the schools, people are slipping and sliding all over the
Real snow people don't start doing that until 6-8" and if you're from
da UP, or the Dakotas, or Chautauqua County, NY, not until more than a
Problems with snow driving is understandable if you've never experienced it
and is obviously an acquired skill, although not one I'd judge was worth
wasting much bragging pride on ... what's really baffling is why the snow
birds (or whatever the opposite of your "crackers" is) visiting down here in
Texas can't seem to drive more than 15mph in a gentle rain?
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