As long as we're talking about electricity:
We're selling our mobile home and a potential buyer had it inspected.
One of the things he said should be done was to install GFCI outlets in
the outlets near the kitchen sink. OK, that made sense. And I'd done it
before in another room to make the model RR safer. So I anticipated no
Boy, was I an optimist! First of all, mobile homes use (or did when mine
was built) some strange outlets designed for quick installation. They
(Click on the picture and look at the other views.)
In this case, the outlet with the line connection was in the middle of
the string so there was a 3rd set of wires crammed into that fixture.
I'm not sure that was kosher but it's many years too late to complain.
So now I'm trying to get 3 very old and stiff connection sets into one
new box. There's not a lot of slack so I'm working very close to the
wall. Trying to get 2 of those solid 10 or 12 gauge wires under a screw
on the GFCI outlet is #$%! impossible - at least for me. I spent 3 or 4
hours yesterday and got nothing accomplished except frustration.
What I'm wondering about is getting a deeper box and wire nutting the two
load circuits and the 3 ground wires together so that I only have one
wire to go under each screw. I might even go to 14 gauge for that couple
of inches of wire so it'd be more flexible. And maybe extend the line
wires with the same stuff.
Would this meet code? Is it advisable? Or should I just call the
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
It would be recommended and the proper way to do it. Receps should
always be pigtailed from a wire nutted through connection. This is much
preferred to using the recep as part of wire path. There can be
exceptions to GFI circuits if you want the GFI to protect everything
The connections are definitely ok (and iiuc, and there were two
conductors under a single screw that's not).
The 14 ga _isn't_ ok if it is a 20A circuit, though, despite the short
length. The connection to the receptacle doesn't count as a device like
a light fixture that may only have 16 or 18 internally connected to the
12 or 14 house wiring.
I hear your pain, though; the miniature stuff used in mobile and many
prefab units is surely a sorry thing to have to work on/with... :(
I'd never had to deal with it until a few years ago got involved w/ a
disaster long-term response team after some severe storms in the area.
Many of those were old, old, old, trailers and I learned to hate them
very quickly. :) (or, :( maybe???)
On Sunday, March 25, 2012 9:50:56 AM UTC-7, Larry Blanchard wrote:
[but the box gets VERY crowded]
For standard size electric boxes, you can get extensions (it'll add an inch
of depth, so the box will stick out of the wall a bit). You can also trace
the circuit back to the main breaker and put your GFI in the breaker
box instead of next to the sink. It's not THAT far to walk to reset
it, I trust.
Either way, you aren't stuck fitting everything into the tight OEM box.
That was my thought. I used ground Fault circuit breakers for my pool
equipment in a former life. They get pricey for double pole like
that, but for a kitchen outlet they are not so much, and MUCH cheaper
than a house call by an electrician.
Might it not be easier to install GFCI breakers on the affected circuits?
Not cheaper, easier. My folks had a mobile home and the bathroom and
kitchen counter circuits were protected this way and if done properly it
should meet code requirements. As you say, older mobile home wiring tends
to be total crap and is not meant for repair or modification and changing a
light or receptacle can be a nightmare let alone trying to install an
extra-deep device in a shallow box.
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