OT: drywall corner bead

[RicodJour]

It's not clear who or what you're replying to if you don't quote the relevant post.

R

[DAC]

I was using 1 inch staples, and the perforated metal corner that can be had at any BORG. I liked the staples better than nails or screws because they would have less protuding above the surface of the metal edging.

As for the stapler, I have an inexpensive Bostich SX150 picked up for $30 from ebay.

A stapler like this using

1/2" divergent staples seems interesting, and no air hose, would like to hear from those that have.

The single best reason is that I've found is that being able to hold the edging in place with one hand, and fastening with the other. Drywall screws have their place, and I've used many for this application, BUT the stapling method rocks!

DAC

[Tom Watson]

I haven't done other than use the crimped-on corner beads in prolly twenty-five years.

I'd used nails and screws in the past.

The crimp-ons are self aligning, with a little bit of restraint.

If a nail or screw pulls the bead off line, it's hard to bring it back.

It is also too often the case that a nail or screw stands proud of the line that the knife needs to follow during finishing.

Not so with crimped-on beads.

The only time I've seen the crimp-ons fail is when the rock was applied so that the beveled edge was where the bead should go.

This doesn't allow the crimp to get a good bite.

Some guys do it because they think that the bead will be planar with the rock face, but that is not the way things were designed to go together.

The bead will definitely stand proud of the plane of the rock if you do it the right way, but that is the accepted practice.

It sucks to be a trim carpenter that comes behind this way of doing, but that's the way it is.

Regards,

Tom Watson

tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)

[Doug Miller]

Didn't have it perfectly aligned with the edge, thought I did, stapled it up, looked at it, and said, 'that looks like s**t'.

Well, I'm just having a bit of a hard time understanding how crimping it into the drywall is just as secure as nailing it into the studs. Maybe you can explain that one to me.

Hey, I'm a woodworker, not a drywall finisher. I never claimed to be an expert. Since you seem to be... why don't you explain how the other guys who have griped in this thread about problems with crimped or mudded corner beads are wrong?

[Doug Miller]

One-inch narrow crown staples.

I never bother. But I'm no expert on drywall.

[Doug Miller]

Too easy to dimple and crimp the corner bead if you set a screw even a couple hairs too deep.

[Tom Watson]

I was just talking about crimpers in a reply to what I guess is another part of this thread.

These are what I've used for years.

I've still got a Goldblatt and a Marshalltown in my mud bag.

I think that the best two features of these tools is that they make you get the bead on straight and you never have problems with fasteners that stand proud of the knife edge when the beads get mudded.

The only problem I ever ran into is when the rockers put the beveled edge on the corners. Then the crimpers don't grip right and you are relying more on the mud than you should.

I've had guys argue with me that doing it their way brings the bead into plane with the face of the rock, but that's not the way it was intended to be.

Regards,

Tom Watson

tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)

[Leon]

They are for the sheet rock.

[Robert Allison]

occasion when I don't have my crimper with me, but it is such a pain and does not come out nearly as elegantly.

FWIW, corner bead was designed to be installed with crimpers. That is how it was supposed to be installed and I would say that 95% of all corner bead is installed that way. I have never seen any professional do it any other way, except in the case of small patches or with one or two pieces.

I am a general contractor, and if I saw it being applied with screws, nails or staples, I would find another drywall sub.

You really can't get it right with anything else.

[Locutus]

Thank you!

[Locutus]

It wouldn't have done that if you had used a crimper..

Who said it is *AS* secure? screwing hinges on with wood screws is less secure than using lag bolts, do you use lag bolts to attach your hinges? :)

I don't need to explain how they are wrong, they just are.... almost ALL professional installers use crimpers.

[Doug Miller]

Maybe you're right. But I don't have a crimper, and I do have a pneumatic stapler. :-)

Comprehending hyperbole isn't one of your strong points, I see. The point is, serious questions have been raised in this thread regarding the holding ability of a crimped bead vs. a nailed one. Care to address those?

Ahhh, I see... you don't know, either. Had it occurred to you that professional installers might use crimpers because they're *faster*, not necessarily because they're better?

And, of course, they don't typically live in the houses they're building, either. I wonder what the pros use when hanging drywall in their own homes.

[John Grossbohlin]

Actually, they and I use cornerbead "clinchers." ;~)

After I clinch the corners on, which gets them tight and straight on the corner, I put screws in at about 16", 32" and 48" heights from the floor--one screw on each side at each height. A union drywaller told me about that technique... the idea is that it gets the corner on straight and tight and the screws help keep it from being busted off if someone bashes it with furniture, etc. In commercial work with rubber base he also puts screws in near the floor but in residential work with wood base he doesn't bother.

Sure it's "belt and suspenders" but it beats the hell out of fixing corners that have pulled loose or that were installed loose and/or crooked.

John

[Leon]

And of course a contractor seldom does the work himself. His interest is most often all about getting the job done cheaply and quickly.

[Swingman]

I prefer the word "inexpensively" when it applies to me ... but you can be damn sure that nothing done in the way of construction is "cheap" anymore.

Thank you Katrina, FEMA and commodity/oil traders.

[Robert Allison]

And correctly. The proper term is inexpensively. Do you want your contractor doing it incorrectly and expensively? Most of the work I do is at cost plus, so it would actually be in my best interests to do it more expensively as it would generate more profit. I demand that it be done right, and in a professional manner. That is why I only do work from referrals and have more work than I can handle.

Go and borrow and clincher. Put a piece of corner bead on with the clincher and one with screws, nails or staples. Look at the end product. I am sure that you will like the clinch-on uniformity and especially the finished product (after floating) much better than the fastened one.

We do use screws to secure the clinched on corners in high traffic areas. Clinch on the corner, then install screws at top and midpoint (another poster mentioned this). But the initial installation is always done with the clincher, as it installs the bead with the correct angle and aligns it properly on the corner. You have to see it to understand.

[Leon]

I was hoping that you would not take my comments personally. I know that you are one of the few contracotrs/home builders that gets his hands dirty to make sure the job is done correctly and done so that the house will last. I know you do things a lot like me. Personally I do not want to see the customer again unless it is to sell him more work that he wants.

Yeah. Actually I believe "the storm" did less damage to the economy than FEMA and the commodity/oil traders have.

[Leon]

I stand corrected there. Inexpensively is the correct word to use there. And correctly is a must. However correctly does not always mean better. Putting in prefab partical board framed cabinets is correct but nusually not better than on site built cabinets or prefab cabinets built out of higher grade materials. Cost has a strong hold on which method or product will be used.

Do you want your contractor doing it incorrectly and expensively?

Absolutely not but there are many ways to do something correctly that often last longer and while more expensive during building, cheaper in the long run when repairs don't have to be addressed years or months later.

Most of

Yes but you would probably be under bid and loose the job.

I demand that it be done right, and in a

As is my case although I don't want to work full time any more. And in Texas as you well know, staying busy is not that hard to do. The shoddy contractors and builders have no problem staying busy either. When there is a building boom everyone stays busy. I shudder to think what many home owners in New Orleans and the surrounding area are going to have put up with and or end up with when all is said and done.

No doubt that it will look better initially but my fear is how it will "hold up" when it gets marinally bumped by a piece of furniture. While the resulting damage is no fault of the installer because it was done "correctly" I have to think the repair would be simpler if the strip does not in some cases not tear loose and require replacing the whole piece or by simply using a bit of touch up paint.

Is that method correct?? LOL. This is what I am talking about. The added insurance for what might happen after the warranty had run out for the home owner.

Clinch on the corner, then install screws at

I understand. I have also done warranty work for Kimball Hill Homes. I do not repair their sheet rock, rather repairs to trim work but have seen several instances in a single home and in many homes in a new neighborhood where the corner beads have popped loose.

[Locutus]

I don't know because they gave no details, but I would speculate excessive wear/stress on the corner or poor installation.

How about they are *faster* and good enough?

Most likely they use crimped on corners, I do.

[mac davis]

I must just be lucky, mine came out fine... and I use a Crapman driver! *lol*

Mac