I'm with ya...just did a dozen or so window revels with drywall wrapped
back to the window at my buddy's new bar, worked BEAUTIFULLY...will
never go back to nails, and won't ever used "mud on".
It may seem like over kill, but in addition to the mud on the corner
bead, there's a layer of tape where the coner meets the drywall...it's
cheep insurance against cracking in the future, and it seemed to finish
Regardless of the corner bead/mudding...there's FREE BEER until he
forgets what I did for him...fortunately he's a young guy ;-)
ok, 2 questions
1)what size staple are we taking about? just curious.
I've got a
. It buries 1/2" quarter round, outside corner, wallboard. does all cables
too. staples up to 9/16" . all staples are diff heights, not widths, cept
single side brads. Stop plate for round cables. I'm not gonna use it, just
curious. Always screws.
2)What about metal corners on inside corners?
I have done this everywhere I can. No big deal.
You use regular perforated metal corner beads on inside corners? Or
are you talking about the metal flex tape?
The only time I use flex tape on an inside corner is if it's not a 90
degree corner and/or the drywall isn't straight.
I was using 1 inch staples, and the perforated metal corner that can be
had at any BORG. I liked the staples better than nails or screws
because they would have less protuding above the surface of the metal
As for the stapler, I have an inexpensive Bostich SX150
<http://images.google.com/images?q=bostitch+sx150 picked up for $30
A stapler like this <http://www.trim-tex.com/productsindex.htm using
1/2" divergent staples seems interesting, and no air hose, would like
to hear from those that have.
The single best reason is that I've found is that being able to hold
the edging in place with one hand, and fastening with the other.
Drywall screws have their place, and I've used many for this
application, BUT the stapling method rocks!
On Thu, 23 Feb 2006 22:38:03 GMT, email@example.com (Doug Miller)
I haven't done other than use the crimped-on corner beads in prolly
I'd used nails and screws in the past.
The crimp-ons are self aligning, with a little bit of restraint.
If a nail or screw pulls the bead off line, it's hard to bring it
It is also too often the case that a nail or screw stands proud of the
line that the knife needs to follow during finishing.
Not so with crimped-on beads.
The only time I've seen the crimp-ons fail is when the rock was
applied so that the beveled edge was where the bead should go.
This doesn't allow the crimp to get a good bite.
Some guys do it because they think that the bead will be planar with
the rock face, but that is not the way things were designed to go
The bead will definitely stand proud of the plane of the rock if you
do it the right way, but that is the accepted practice.
It sucks to be a trim carpenter that comes behind this way of doing,
but that's the way it is.
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
I second Toms post. I have had to attach cornerbead upon
occasion when I don't have my crimper with me, but it is such
a pain and does not come out nearly as elegantly.
FWIW, corner bead was designed to be installed with crimpers.
That is how it was supposed to be installed and I would say
that 95% of all corner bead is installed that way. I have
never seen any professional do it any other way, except in the
case of small patches or with one or two pieces.
I am a general contractor, and if I saw it being applied with
screws, nails or staples, I would find another drywall sub.
You really can't get it right with anything else.
I was hoping that you would not take my comments personally. I know that
you are one of the few contracotrs/home builders that gets his hands dirty
to make sure the job is done correctly and done so that the house will last.
I know you do things a lot like me. Personally I do not want to see the
customer again unless it is to sell him more work that he wants.
Yeah. Actually I believe "the storm" did less damage to the economy than
FEMA and the commodity/oil traders have.
And correctly. The proper term is inexpensively. Do you want
your contractor doing it incorrectly and expensively? Most of
the work I do is at cost plus, so it would actually be in my
best interests to do it more expensively as it would generate
more profit. I demand that it be done right, and in a
professional manner. That is why I only do work from
referrals and have more work than I can handle.
Go and borrow and clincher. Put a piece of corner bead on
with the clincher and one with screws, nails or staples. Look
at the end product. I am sure that you will like the
clinch-on uniformity and especially the finished product
(after floating) much better than the fastened one.
We do use screws to secure the clinched on corners in high
traffic areas. Clinch on the corner, then install screws at
top and midpoint (another poster mentioned this). But the
initial installation is always done with the clincher, as it
installs the bead with the correct angle and aligns it
properly on the corner. You have to see it to understand.
I stand corrected there. Inexpensively is the correct word to use there.
And correctly is a must. However correctly does not always mean better.
Putting in prefab partical board framed cabinets is correct but nusually not
better than on site built cabinets or prefab cabinets built out of higher
grade materials. Cost has a strong hold on which method or product will be
Do you want your contractor doing it incorrectly and expensively?
Absolutely not but there are many ways to do something correctly that often
last longer and while more expensive during building, cheaper in the long
run when repairs don't have to be addressed years or months later.
Yes but you would probably be under bid and loose the job.
I demand that it be done right, and in a
As is my case although I don't want to work full time any more. And in
Texas as you well know, staying busy is not that hard to do. The shoddy
contractors and builders have no problem staying busy either. When there is
a building boom everyone stays busy. I shudder to think what many home
owners in New Orleans and the surrounding area are going to have put up with
and or end up with when all is said and done.
No doubt that it will look better initially but my fear is how it will "hold
up" when it gets marinally bumped by a piece of furniture. While the
resulting damage is no fault of the installer because it was done
"correctly" I have to think the repair would be simpler if the strip does
not in some cases not tear loose and require replacing the whole piece or by
simply using a bit of touch up paint.
Is that method correct?? LOL. This is what I am talking about. The added
insurance for what might happen after the warranty had run out for the home
Clinch on the corner, then install screws at
I understand. I have also done warranty work for Kimball Hill Homes. I do
not repair their sheet rock, rather repairs to trim work but have seen
several instances in a single home and in many homes in a new neighborhood
where the corner beads have popped loose.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.