Norm's show on the bowfront chest

I was paying special attention to the part of Norm's show on the bowfront chest where he laminated the curved fronts of the drawers in the chest having not done to well in a similar lamination project myself this winter. Norm said he used a glue which set up more slowly and didn't bleed through the 1/8" thick pieces of wood that he laminated. Did anyone catch the type of glue that he used?

TIA.

Dick Snyder

Reply to
Dick Snyder
Loading thread data ...

I think he said "cold press"

formatting link

Reply to
RayV

The glue he used he called a cold press glue. The advantages he quoted were its longer open time and that it wouldn't bleed through the top veneer. I found it odd that he never made mention of the tendency of different glues to 'creep' after cured in bent laminations. I'd always read to use plastic resin glue becuase it didn't creep at all after curing. Who knows, maybe the cold press glue he referred to is actually plastic resin????

Joe

Reply to
Joe

a quick google on cold press glue turned up this link

formatting link

Reply to
Joe

They ran a different program here but to comment on your question.

When you find something better than epoxy with a slow hardener for laminating, let me know.

It doesn't creep, is waterproof and has at least 30 minute open time, unless you are working in direct sun light like I do most of the time.

The down side is that you wear protective gloves.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

Lew,

How rough is the cured epoxy on blades? I know that plastic resin is *very* rough on them.

jc

>
Reply to
Joe

Thanks for the quick replies. Cold Press sounds right based on my memory of the bits of a word I heard him say.

Reply to
Dick Snyder

I don't have a clue; however; a laminate of knitted glass and epoxy will destroy a 9", 16 grit, abrasive disk in a hurry.

Just curious, what makes you ask?

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

I always need to clean up the edges of bent laminations, usually by running them over the jointer first, and then the opposite edge either through the planer or the table saw and was wondering if epoxy would be easier on the blades than plastic resin.

jc

Reply to
Joe

"Dick Snyder" wrote in news:ve6dnUhHG_m-gKDbnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@comcast.com:

Well, Franklin (Titebond) seems to be a sponsor of his show. And Franklin sells a Cold Press Veneering glue. At least they did a couple of years ago.

formatting link
turned out to be a good looking project, didn't it? Maybe just a bit beyond what could be easily shown in a 22 minute show, but nice. And the finishing stage on the mahogany didn't screw it up too badly, even with the filler stuff spooned on...

Patriarch

Reply to
Patriarch

Sounds like it might be a candidate for a 12" disk sander.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

I've never had a significant problem w/ carbide blades w/ epoxies nor resin glues w/ such a technique -- there simply isn't enough of it in the glue joint to be significant to a carbide blade. HSS is another question, of course. This also assumes the squeeze out is minimal or taken care of prior to running over the jointer -- I would run the side through the saw and cut it down first if that were the case rather than start w/ the jointer or, as someone else mentioned, I sanding disc would be an alternative.

The problem w/ epoxy/glass is more the glass fibers than the epoxy itself, and the glue line in commercial plywood is thicker and harder than what would get in the suggested application here...

Reply to
dpb

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.