Why not? It's a tool! I know guys that spend all their time making
jigs, shop cabinets, and things like fitted contractor saw backs.
While it makes them happy, which is great, I prefer to make items that
non-wooddorkers can appreciate!
Me too, especially the main non-wooddorker in my life, SWMBO, who
incidentally kicked in the extra bucks and insisted that I quit looking for
a used saw and get the new Griz. I aspire to cabinetry in the house, a
built-in computer desk, shelves and cabinets for her home office, and
plantation shutters for the whole house. Now if I can just learn to make a
square crosscut, the rest should be easy...
Okay, okay, I was just kidding. I really can make a square crosscut...but
that's about it. <G> I will soon be googling for sled plans even though I
have an RAS, which BTW, I never would have adjusted properly if I hadn't
been hanging around here and learned from you folks (and found the manual).
What a difference!! I even ripped some MDF on the RAS and it worked
beautifully. Looking forward to my next rip on the Griz though!!
I've only made a few cuts so far, but I was surprised at how well the dust
port worked. I am using a large shop vac hooked up directly BTW.
You still get a small amount of sawdust escaping from the back, and some
comes off the "top" of the blade where the teeth enter the wood, but it's
fairly minor. I even made a long cut on some MDF and did not see much fine
dust go into the air (it probably went right through the cartridge on the
Still, the direct anser to your question is: Yes, there's a small amount to
clean up afterwards.
Top posting because I think it makes sense in this case...
I thought I post the outcome of some of the issues I stated in my earlier
post, which is included below for anyone who wants to read it.
I checked the flatness with the best straight-edge that I could find and
could not sneak a .003" feeler guage underneath it. The .002 went under
several places. I checked several different ways and in various directions.
The Cosmoline stains and paint overspray came off fairly easily using plain
old paint thinner, as suggested by Grizzly's technical support. They were
willing to replace the wings if necessary, but this was a better solution.
Still waiting for the replacement grommet for the power chord. Grizzly
claims that it's in the mail.
The worm gear and control shaft for the blade height needed adjustment, and
I feel that a washer was omitted during assembly at the factory. It's
working great now.
The action of the handwheels is just kind of "loose". I put a lock washer
and flat washer between the hand wheel and the stop knob and this made them
feel better and prevents the lock knob from back off as you change settings.
Cutting is silky smooth even with a medium quality combination blade. I
don't have any super hardwood to test on, but it ripped a pine 2x4 with no
problems at all and no sign of bogging down.
The mitre gauge is still a POS. The threads of the handle are too long and
protrude through the bar, touching the bottom of the t-slot. I'll correct
that with one or two washers. The bottom surface is rough and I won't use it
on that pristine table surface until I can smooth it out or put on some type
of protective material.
Aside from that, I'm happy as a clam. I resist making a blanket endorsement
because I don't feel qualified to evaluate the saw's cutting characteristics
as they compare to the more demanding needs many of you have. My GUESS is
that this saw is as precise as many of the more expensive tools. I'm in the
Dallas area if anyone wants to take a close look. (Just don't laugh at the
cabinetry on my work bench <G>. It was my first try...)
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