Need a Cheap Nailer For Toe-Nailing

I am looking for a nailer that I will use it for nothing but toe-nailing two pieces of woods together (as a way to clamp them together). I already have a set of nailers; but somehow I cannot use them for toe-nailing (the nail will stick out by 1/8" or more). Therefore, I need a nailer that can do toe-nailing.

Because it is a single purpose tool that I probably won't use often, I want it to cost very little. I am looking at the nailers from Harbor Freight, and they have some very low cost nailers (as low as $20). But I have no idea which one can do toe-nailer properly. Can someone tell me where I can find a low cost nailer that can do toe-nailer?

Thanks in advance for any suggestion.

Jay Chan

Reply to
jaykchan
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Take one of the nailers that you already own. Adjust the depth-of-drive to countersink the nail. Use same for toe-nailing. Cost you just a bit of time and testing on some scrap lumber.

Reply to
IBM5081

This is odd. I have adjusted the depth of drive of my existing nailer to the max and I still cannot countersink the nail. The nailer is Senco that is supposed to be good.

Jay Chan

Reply to
jaykchan

On the Senco I used to have, the adjustment is done by changing the length of the ram. Assuming you have enough pressure, that's all that's left. It's a very simple mechanism.

Reply to
Dave Hinz

OK. I will try my Senco nailer one more time. But I am not hopeful.

I cannot rule out the possibility that I might have read the instruction wrong. When I just bought the nailer, I was quite confused by the instruction manual when I tried to load nails into the nailer. I would not be surprised that I might have misunderstood the instruction on adjusting depth-of-drive. On the other hand, the mechanism in adjusting the depth-of-drive in that nailer is seemingly quite simple: just turning a hand screw. How would I get this wrong anyway? I don't know.

I am leaning toward the belief that the safety mechanism may have keep the nailer head too far from the surface of the wood and may prevent the nailer from countersinking the nail. That is the reason why I want to know if another nailer may help.

Jay Chan

Reply to
jaykchan

(I wrote, but you deleted the attribution for, )

You have the owners manual, right? If not, it's on Senco's website in PDF format.

Dunno, if you gave the model number I missed it.

See what Senco's website has to say before you spend more money. Or, call their support folks. It's a quality product, they'll take care of you and help you if you can be helped.

Dave Hinz

Reply to
Dave Hinz

I have to increase PSI 10-15lbs to toe nail with my Porter Cable framer. I agree with the consensus that the Senco should be able to be tweaked into proper performance. Good Luck!

Reply to
msschmenk

Am I missing something? I thought I have put the original quote on the message.

Yes, I have the owner manual. But it is a one manual for multiple models kind of thing, and it is not clear.

This is a good idea. I should contact their tech support to see if they can help me with this.

Thanks.

Jay Chan

Reply to
jaykchan

If it is not the adjustment of your Senco. Just buy one of those Bostich staple/nail guns. Basically a more expensive staple gun. Their at Lowes and Home Depot. Just be warned if you go to Home Depot and hear someone over a bull horn say "PUT DOWN THE PENCIL AND BACK AWAY" just run and don't go back.

Roy

Reply to
ROYNEU

Yeah, but just like on this one, the "Dave Hinz wrote..." line isn't there. It just makes things easier to follow if you leave those in.

See if there's a newer one online. Keep in mind there's also parts manuals which are different than user manuals for Senco.

There ya go. Nice thing about buying top-notch stuff is that that's an option.

Reply to
Dave Hinz

Exactly what type of nailer (framing, finishing or brad) are you using? I own nearly the full line of Senco nailers and have no problems with toenailing, however it does require holding the gun FIRMLY against the board your nailing into. If the gun is not held firmly enough, often the gun will bounce when it is fired causing the nail to stick out. Also, the "angle of attack" may influence how the nail is set. 45-60 degrees or so seems to wok best with my guns. --dave

Reply to
Dave Jackson

On 7 Dec 2005 09:57:40 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com quickly quoth:

Possible solutions:

1) Use a shorter nail or 2) Adjust the air pressure up or 3) Clean and re-oil the thing so it works properly. or 4) All of the above.

Even my $15 Harbor Fright nailer and $24 HFT stapler will sink a staple or brad head beneath the surface.

========================================================= The Titanic. The Hindenburg. +

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The Clintons. + Website & Graphic Design =========================================================

Reply to
Larry Jaques

Unfortunately, the small air compression that comes with the Senco brad nailer cannot go over 120 PSI. Even I max out the outlet air pressure, I still can only get up to 120 PSI. I am wondering if the restriction on air pressure may be the reason why I cannot toe-nail properly. What's the PSI that you need to set in order to toe-nail properly with a brad nailer (if you have done something like that)? Thanks.

Jay Chan

Reply to
jaykchan

Now I see. I didn't realize the significance of leaving the original message sender name in the message.

Jay Chan

Reply to
jaykchan

I am currently working on the assumption that the air compressor is not up to the task. The small air compression that comes with the Senco brad nailer automatically cut off at 120 PSI and cannot be adjusted upward. I am wondering if a higher PSI would make a difference. May I ask you what is the PSI of the regulator in your air compressor when you successfully toe nail using a brad nail?

Yes, my Senco is also able to counter sink a nail -- when it is _not_ toe-nailing.

Jay Chan

Reply to
jaykchan

?? What does this mean ??

Jay Chan

Reply to
jaykchan

It is a Senco FinishPro-18 brad nailer that comes with a small air compressor (1 hp, 1 gal).

I have just tried toe-nailing. This time I press the nailing head firmly against the wood at 45-degree before I hit the trigger. But the result is the same. The nail is sticking out by 1/16" (on soft wood like pine) (or 1/8" in dense wood like MDF). I would much rather that it was counter-sunk or flush with the surface.

And I have adjusted the depth-of-drive to the maximum depth.

I have the feeling that the air compressor may not be up to the task. It automatically cuts off at 120 PSI and there is nothing I can do to adjust it upward. What's the PSI that your air compressor is running at when you toe-nail a short brad nail into soft wood like pine or dense wood?

Thanks for any follow-up info in advance.

Jay Chan

Dave Jacks> Exactly what type of nailer (framing, finishing or brad) are you using? I

Reply to
jaykchan

I'm not sure of the exact pressure that they recommend but I doubt if they recommend running it at that high of pressure. 85 to 100 psi would be more normal. Before turning it up that high, read the manual. Sever damage can result at to high a pressure.

Reply to
CW

It's poking fun at Home Depot for the way they handle theft. Maybe you didn't hear about the guy who put a pencil in his pocket by mistake. Was run in for stealing, etc. There was an extensive thread here about it, too.

Roy

Reply to
ROYNEU

I'm sure this isn't what you want to hear but the nailer I use is cheap, non-adjustable and always leaves the brads at least 1/4" proud under any nailing situation. My quick and easy remedy was a punch and a tack hammer. Instant countersinking!

FoggyTown

Reply to
foggytown

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