I'm looking for the plans for a jig for fine tuning miter cuts after they
have first been cut on the table saw. I saw,and can't remember where, a jig
that used an iron from a plane. Does that sound familiar to anyone?
I just made a hand-power one. .750" plywood base about 16" x 16", .& 250"
plywood screwed to it, shy ~2" on either side. A precision 1.25"x.75" strip
screwd along top @ far edge from legs, and a strip on the underside for
clamping to a bench vice. Then a 3x3 drill pattern through both plys for a
mitre strip of .750" x 1.000" x ~13" long, attached with a wing nut into
bolt held in grooves cut in bottom of .750" ply. A std. planer (whole
thing, not-attached, arm operated) rides flat on the .750" ply, up against
the .250" ply, on either side. The far edge strip is at 90 degrees, but
also micro-adjustable with a flat bottomed hole, and lat bottoming screw in
oversized C'Bored hole.
BTW, why is my No.4 Stanley plane flat (i.e right angled via. plane blade
plane) on one side, but not on the other!?
Consider that if your jig does not allow for you to PRECISELY cut your
pieces to an EXACT length, 45's for parallel pieces and picture frames will
probably have gaps at the joint.
As important as having an exact 45 or other degree cut, is having parallel
sides to be of exact equal length.
I put a couple of posts (bent) in "Newbie questions on use of table saw",
06/03/2006 6:39 PM you may want to see and also search group or net for term
"miter sled", or "mitre sled", as I was taught. "sled" or message or
subject "sled", & sender "bent". I know I described my mitXX sled, as well
as my cross-cut sled somewhere in here.
OK, fine. I'll re-state it:
Why not just do it right the first time? Why start out planning for
failure? What if you could cut your miter on the table saw so that it
didn't need any "fine tuning" or "clean up" afterwards?
LOL.. No Ed what I mean is what if "fine tuning" is meant to reflect a more
crisp edge with out tear out. What if the blade on the TS makes a perfect
45 but with lots of tear out and he wants to use some thing like those
Guillotine jobs that cut a crisp sharp edge. No amount of machine set up
is going to prevent a problems with a blade that causes a lot of tear out.
You know, some people run their TS ripped edge through the jointer
afterwards to clean up the cut.
Why do you think that the output of the TS will necessarily need
clean-up? Heck, a good quality sharp blade will produce excellent
results, free from tearout or any crushed fibers. And, it will cost
less than one of those guillotine things. Ever seen the Forrest demo
at the trade shows?
Again, why not just do it right the first time?
Maybe it was the comment by the OP that he was looking for a jig for fine
tuning miter cuts after they have first been cut on the table saw. That
really could mean anything, the comment was non specific.
IF he does not have a good blade the cuts can be cleaned up with a jig and a
plane blade. If his miter gauge is not reliably repeatable your tool will
come in handy.
Forrest demo's? I do my own Forrest demo most every day. ;~)
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