Mineral oil?

[John DeBoo]

Wasn't it mineral oil most use on new cutting boards, rolling pins and such? Damned if I can remember, even if I've read it over and over. John

[Edwin Pawlowski]

Yes, it is available as most any store in the H & BA department or the pharmacy.

[woodworker88]

You're right about the mineral oil. I believe there is a trick to getting the mineral oil to soak into the wood and not just make the surface slick that involves soaking or rubbing, but I'm not sure.

[John DeBoo]

[Upscale]

I use unscented baby oil (I think it's mineral oil) and rub it in with superfine 4000 grit steel wool. It works great.

[Edwin Pawlowski]

So have I but not with steel wool. You light a couple of candles, but on some soft music . . . .

[George]

Better to use walnut oil. Sinks in, cures, gives a bit of water resistance without making a swiffer out of your cutting board.

[Kenneth]

But it can become rancid, and some people are allergic to it... Stick with mineral oil for food-related stuff.

All the best,

[JeffB]

Walnut oil is a drying oil - ii hasn't gone rancid on me. I've had very good results using it on chopping blocks - end grain. Works somewhat less well on long grain - although others have used it by dipping parts in heated walnut oil

Allergies could be a concern - probably less after the oil has dried.

[George]

It is a curing oil - does not become rancid in open air.

They're not allergic to walnut oil - one in 100,000 is allergic to some degree to nut proteins.

On the other hand, bacteria and oil-soluble foodstuffs of all sorts find comfort and shelter from detergents in an oil which does not cure. Not to mention dirt and dust collection.

[Ben Gold]

I think maybe you're just putting too much on? I usually dribble drops down the length of the wood in question and then vigorously rub it around with a clean cloth until all the surface is noticeably moist looking, but not slick. It remains "oily" for a few hours, but usually it's quite useable after that.

[Pounds on Wood]

Mineral oil is not a finish. It will only penetrate and never harden. I does nothing for the wood in terms of a cutting board. It will make wooden kitchen items look good for a while, like until the first time it is used, and it is completely harmless to humans. It is a nice touch to pretty up a gift, and will last at least until the party is over. There is not real trick to using it, although warming the oil and/or the wood will help it penetrate. I like to put it on cutting boards and bowls. Rubbing beeswax over the top will prolong the look a bit.

For a nice drying oil, try this stuff:

Pounds

[Australopithecus scobis]

I re-oiled my Williams-Sonoma cutting board just last week. Set it on a couple paper towels. Pour on mineral oil. Spread it around with fingers. It's a deep puddle at this stage. Wait a few hours. Do it again. My board has, with this second application, consumed a pint bottle of mineral oil. (Less a few ccs that I used for this and that around the shop in the meantime.)

[Australopithecus scobis]

It does fill up pores which would otherwise fill with water. I suspect that is the purpose.

I like your beeswax idea, will give it a try.

[Phisherman]

[Wally Goffeney]

Dissolve paraffin wax in warm mineral oil. Use enough wax to form a soft gel at room temperature. Rub this into the cutting board.

[SonomaProducts.com]

Amen, Walunt or any food based oil is bad news. Pure mineral oil is best.

[Max]

Whatever happened to Behlen's Salad Bowl Finish?

Max D.

[George]

Tung oil varnish.

[RonB]

I have used mineral oil on cutting boards and it gives a very nice finish. However, you will have to renew a couple of times a year if the board gets used much.. Good part is the stuff is cheap and you can keep it in the kitchen for finish renewals.