I need a precision instrument to mark lines. I'm looking for opinions
on a marking gauge or wheel (that scribes a line) vs. a marking rule
(either the Incra with tiny holes for the pencil or a combination
square set to the desired depth).
If you want to scribe a line off the edge, end or face of a
board Glenn-Drake's Tite-Mark can't be beat. Here's more
about it. Worth the price and then some. I use it for
stop lines for dovetails, tops for half blinds, mortise and
tenon layout, stopped dados (sp?) The wheel is a single
bevel so one face of the marked groove is square to the
stock surface so when you place your chisel or saw in the
groove the important face of the cut starts out square.
It can also be used to set a table saw blade height and
a router bit depth/height.
I don't get the mortise blade part. How is that blade different from
the regular blade? Is it just that it has a collar on it with a
setscrew so you can put it anywhere along the rod?
Assuming that's the case, I don't get how you set the thickness of the
mortise. The screw adjustment sets the distance from the end cutter to
the fence, but it looks like the distance between the two cutters has to
be set by getting the collar at just the right place and tightening down
the set screw by hand. Doesn't the defeat the whole purpose of the
screw micro-adjustment gizmo?
Like the regular wheel, the mortise and tenon wheels are "single
on flat face, one beveled face. That means the "waste side" slopes
away from the "square face" you want to keep. And that may, if you
pay attention to how you cut/chop/pare, mean a nice square face or a
nice clean edge. In the ASCII illustrations below - if your put your
chisel or saw blade in the scribed "line", which would more likely
produce a square face and clean edge - and a little more accurately?
+---+ +--- ---+ +----
So the mortise wheels, other than having a large hole to fit the
grooved rod - it has a flat bottomed groove on it - and the set
screw to fix their positions on the rod, do exactly what the normal
single beveled wheel does - cut, not scratch, lines -with one vertical
and one slanted face in the cut.
You set the two mortise and tenon wheels to the width of the chisel
you've selected to use. The flat face on each wheel means you can
but them up against the edge of your chisel and lock them down with
the set screw. No eyeballing, no magnifying glass, no hold the chisel
while you try, with just one hand to move and then set the second
"pin/knife/wheel" to the chisel width.
And because they can go on bevel side to bevel side, bevel side to
square side or square side to square side you've got some choices
as to where the line is scribed. I'd set them so the vertical face
of the wheels are towards the mortise faces because that would
a) make setting the gap between them to the chisel width so much
b) leave me a little "alignment/adjustment room" when I fit the tenon
to the mortise. The tenon would be cut just a little "fat"
And here's where the micro-adjustable "fence" comes in handy.
Let's say you want the front face of your apron to sit back from the
face of the leg 1/8th of an inch for a shadow line
|+-------------reference face #1
| 1/8 inch
Because the distance from reference face #2 to the outside edge of
the mortise is not the same as the distance from reference face #1
to the outside face of the tenon (the tenon's shoulder width) you'd
want to set up for the tenon, marking it first. Now get out your
square - a little four inch Starrett is quite handy for this kind
of thing - add 1/8th inch to the shoulder width that the "fence" is
already set at and precisely move the fence to its desired position.
Mark the mortise and you're done.
Now note that your layout cuts, not scratches, all have one vertical
face on the groove that you can feel the "wheel" fall into and stops
when you need to use that set up again. NBo wondering if the scribe
pin is dead centered in a double sloping sided groove or sitting up
on one of the slopes. That's where the single beveled wheel and
micro-adjustable fence come in handy. The parts you just marked will
act as set up guides. AND, you can make adjustments and lock things
down with just one hand while you hold the part with your other hand.
As a bonus, the two knobs that lock down parts of the fence adjustment
mechanism, will keep this precious device from rolling off your
bench and onto the cement? floor. That wasn't an accident but a
conscious design decision.
for all subsequent layouts that need the same settings No more "mark
ALL the parts that need this set up NOW, cause I'll lose this setting
when I layout the next part(s)"
This is one slick, well thought out, well made tool.
OK - I can see your eyes glazing over so I'll quit.
Did that answer your questions?
For a simple, inexpensive solution, try "The Ruler Stop". It attaches to
your steel ruler, and as a result, is as accurate as the finest graduations
on the ruler. You can use a sharp pencil or a marking knife with it.
Sold by Woodhaven and Hartville, but also available directly at
www.woodstoneproductions.com (go to Marketplace then Shopaids on the left
(yes, shameless self-promotion.....)
Ping me offline about that website of yours, Michel.
The only reason I would take up exercising is || http://diversify.com
so that I could hear heavy breathing again. || Programmed Websites
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