: I'm just using a normal marking gauge for this at the moment - a mortise
: gauge is on the cards next time I'm at the toolshop.
Before spending his lolly, Richard might like to look at my web site -
Marking Out Notes - Make Your Own Gauge.
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
Email address is username@ISP
username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
I was wondering how a
: mortise gauge would help me mark a dead-centred mortise even though
: the width of the mark is trivial (set to width of chisel), but the answer
: obvious - trial and error adjustment until marks taken from both sides
: I set the gauge to mark a mortise that is obviously a few mm narrower than
: the chisel - light marks made from both faces.
: Then, light mark with the chisel from one mark, crossing the other side's
: Reset the marking gauge so that it bisects the "overhang" on the chisel
: mark - this is easy to do with relative accuracy by eye.
: Then mark both sides and it should be pretty much the width of the chisel,
: dead centred on the stock (if you have been accurate in the bisection
: Conan, I hear what you say about only ever marking from the reference
: this would seem to me to be the only "correct" strategy for accurate
: marking. However, unless you are cutting the tenons by hand, the tenon
: cutting process is generally symetrical - ie you'd not want to have to
: continually reset the fence on (eg) the bandsaw to cut each side of your
: tenon to bang on the marks (which might not be centred on the stock).
: ideally just want to flip over your stock and cut the other side of the
: tenon, which would result in a symetrical tenon, which might not marry
: exactly with your marked mortise.
: Anyway, thanks for the suggestions, sorry if it sounded like a trivial and
: obvious question to ask.
: Richard Sampson
: email me at
: richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk