Marking Guage Poll

[Lew Hodgett]

Had one, found it to be a lot less useful than I thought it was going to be when I bought it.

Lew

[Father Haskell]

wheel-like profile. Bevel the stock side of the cutter to make the tool pull firm against a workpiece as you push or pull it.

If you like wheel type gauges, they're very easy to make by driving a drywall screw into a block of wood, with the head set the desired offset distance from the block.

[Father Haskell]

Stanley #95 butt gauge has two beams with knives on either end, plus a handy square built into the stock. I reach for it more times than I do my other scratch gauges.

[Buddy Matlosz]

I understand that dammit is now socially acceptable. Dagnabbit is allowed as well. GollyGeeWillikers is still tabu.

Taboo, not tabu.

[Zz Yzx]

Where's LRod when you need him?

-Zz

[Lew Hodgett]

RE: Subject

Maybe spending my early years on a drafting board has affected the way I approach things, but doing layouts with a scale that doubles as a straight edge and some sharp 3H drafting pencils works for me most of the time.

An old electric pencil sharpener is quite helpful.

Lew

[SonomaProducts.com]

I'm an ol' pencil drafter myself but I surely use a knife or scribe whenever I want a layout mark that will also cut the fibers so I get a clean cut and have a guide for my backsaw or chisel, etc,

[charlieb]

snip

Veritas is very good at taking a Tried & True tool design and refine and improve it. This time they missed. The Tite-Mark on the other hand got it exactly right.

The knurled nuts extend out beyond the diameter of the wheel on the end that acts as the fence. - and keeps it from rolling off your bench.

The wheel is Single Bevel which cuts a vertical wall on one side the the "scribe" line - perfect for registering the flat bottom of a chisel against

- say for example the bottom of dovetail sockets. Also makes it easy to reset the gauge off and existing scribe line - or a mortise or tenon.

The single bevel wheel fits into a complimentary depression in the "fence"

- safe from being dinged - something a cutting wheel this hard is proned to do.

The Tite-Mark also has a nylon (?) set screw that lets you adjust how easily the "fence", middle adjuster and "end" parts slide.

I've used the Tite-Mark to set my rip fence, measure depths, etc. Very handy tool.

Glenn Drake really thought out the design of this marking gauge, which you won't fully appreciate until you use one for a year or so.

Costs more - but after you've used others - worth every penny.

[Lew Hodgett]

whenever I want a layout mark that will also cut the fibers so I get a clean cut and have a guide for my backsaw or chisel, etc,

In fact, one tip I give out for doing mortises with a chisel mortise is to layout the rectangle and do deep knife cuts so the overlapping cuts of the square chisel find their way into the knof cut and you get nice clean long sides.

If I need to "engrave", it's time for a 6H pencil or an X-acto knife, either gets about the same results; however, try not to do handwork, leave that to the artisans.

I'm a power tool type.

Lew

[Maxwell Lol]

Easy to fix. You have a file?

[Tom Watson]

Here's what my gauge looks like, except mine is rosewood instead of beech. The removable curved work fence is useful.

Regards,

Tom Watson

[Tom Watson]

forgot the link:

[Robatoy]

old friend.

[Tanus]

Wheel, Tite-mark.

Tanus