Leon, question on your bedframe drawer case.

[OFWW]

Leon, Once your stuff is seen it cannot be unseen from memory. ;)

Here is the last bed frame case you did. On this one it looks like you installed a false drawer front where the nightstand is. Did you hinge it for access?

#2 on your personal bed casing, captain style or whatever. It looks like you have a "hidden drawer" in the center. Am I correct? and is the purpose long term storage and keeping the exterior drawer shallow enough, say 20" so that they can be fully opened if a dresser or Chest of Drawers were nearby and yet still be pulled out for access to the center drawer?

#3 Did you put a piece of masonite, or thin plywood under the drawers to prevent things like mice coming up, or something falling out of a drawer?

#4 is the top plywood easily removable?

#5 on your bed it looks like you have a metal strap going around the toe kick piece, if it is, why?

#6 took a good look at your mounting to the head and foot board, NICE!

# 7 is it suitable for a California King size bed?

Reason for asking, in shopping for a mattress and possible adjustable bed base one vendor has something similar but only two drawers per side and it was covered in gray cloth material, like a box frame might have. It was ok, but 800 bucks for it with a roll around bed frame under that. Max of 1/2 in sides on the drawer, and it got me to thinking of all the lost room in the center of the bed. and no access to the space near the head board. So I looked up your old posts found the link to the pic above, and I am so very glad you left it up there. Plus right about now I was wishing you were not that far away. :) I just might use the old bed frame for now, and make the case after I can get to the Kitchen cabinets. Sure wish I had Mac's new workshop area. :)

[Leon]

Down here in the southern area of the country a comment like that is not necessarily a good thing. LOL

Actually, next to last, last summer. After that I build another for my son. But to answer your question on this particular bed, No. Nor did I do that on the two before that. BUT! on the actual last one for my son and his soon to be better half I used cabinet door magnets to hold the false drawer fronts in place. Give them a yank and you have access to that section. I have not made those areas accessible in the past because I also built side tables/towers that would have to be relocated to gain access.

This is the last bed, and it also has 18 drawers vs. the previous that only had 9. this is the one that I made the front accessible with the magnetic catches.

Notice the French model in the back ground.

All four beds that I have build like this have a center section of drawers that are not seen or accessible unless the outer drawers, either side, are removed.

Am I correct? and is

Exactly on all counts. But all drawers are approximately 1/3 the width of the bed frame.

Only plywood for the drawer bottoms. This is mechanically complete IIRC except for adding the decking to hold the mattress.

Yes. The top plywood is 2 sheets and I do screw them down. But once I remove the screws I can lift from the headboard end. The side face frames and the front near the foot board cover/hide the edges of the

3/4" thick plywood.

If you zoom in here you can see the gap/open end at the head board end that does not encase the end of the plywood.

I am not sure what you are talking about in the top referenced picture. But there is not metal strap. My toe kick is actually to close the gap at the bottoms of the vertical panels and I paint it black.

On our original and the second bed that I built bed I simply used 3" screws and counter sunk the heads. I started using the counter sunk bolts and threaded inserts on the legs in the last 2 beds.

Sure. One of the beds is only Queen sized. Just make the divider panels that separate the drawers longer to shorter or spaces a little more apart.

If you do attempt to build a version of this please let me know and I can give you some pointers of what to avoid. Even after building 3 beds I made a rookie mistake on the 4th and had to undo and redo some major steps and that took me a few hours.

Also, invest in the screw company you choose. It is embarrassing how many screws I use in these things. And it was a very good thing that I used screws on the last one to undo the problem I had. and that is why I use a lot of screws vs. glue and Domino's when attaching drawer tracks, and divider panels to the side face frames.

[OFWW]

I apologize, I meant it in the most impressionable good way, never considering the other side, and yes. I have heard it used that way too. Sorry.

Thanks for the shot of that. It might even further impress my wife. We discussed your other beds and the idea of face frames and drawers matching whatever furniture we end up with, at least in color, and wood is an awesome thing.

Smiling, I well remember that picture.

Ah, thanks for that bit of info.

It was this shot,...

But then on review I now know it was it was just the end of the face that when painted it looked like sheet metal or thin steel wrapped at the lower right hand corner of the picture.

Makes sense, especially if you are going to relocate the bed.

Thanks again, and on reviewing your bed cabinet, especially after seeing this other piece from the manufacturer I can see and appreciate even more, the thought you put into the design, as well as the purposing. I am even more impressed now, and the headboard attaching gives complete control for virtually any head and foot board arrangement.

I'll see what my wife thinks about your latest, tomorrow. It would save me a ton of money for the short term, and yes, when I get to it I'll definitely be in touch. With all those drawers one hardly has need for more bedroom furniture other than an Armoire.

Thanks again.

[Leon]

I know you meant that in the most sincere way. The statement actually reminded me of a tool belt picture that I sent to Swingman in a text. I Preceded the picture with the statement, You can not unsee this. It was a picture of a construction worker, from the back side, wearing a tool belt attached to a g-string. ;~)

The depth of the drawers really does not matter, originally I thought I would make them 36" deep. LOL... But as you mentioned, you may not have room to remove them when they hit the wall or other furniture. You could also place 4 drawers in each slot. But if you are building a double decker, whew, that ends up being 24 drawers you have to build.

But seriously, you get massive storage with out using up any more floor space. What other piece of furniture offers 18 drawers? LOL

I used a flat black milk paint, what I had on hand.

The slotted holes with bolts to attach the frame to the head and foot boards allow mostly for discrepancies in the flooring surface. Order of assembly, level the bed frame. Attach the head and foot boards. On an uneven floor the head and foot boards may not sit on the same plane. The slots in the bed frame allow for the head and foot board to actually sit on the floor vs perhaps float and hand from the bed frame.

Thank you! There was a lot of thought that went into the design. And from the first tot he last bed I have stuck with that design with little change. Change was mostly for the drawer tracks and stops.

If you would like, I can e-mail you the Sketchup drawing file of one of the beds. The later 2 bed frames are the better design. That will show you every angle and detail.

Thank you!

>

[krw]

The guy who invents eye bleach will make a fortune.