Ok. The chatter I was referring to was the result of a loose guide bushing.
It unloosened itself and I didn't notice until later.
Question2: When routing the tails, in scrap cherry, I am getting chip out
on the right side of bit entry.
Is there any other way to avoid this other than using scrap wood clamped to
Do you guys usually use scrap wood clamped to the front of the tail board to
avoid chip out?
With a dovetail saw? ;-)
I've had all kinds of fun with dovetails. Three jigs, lots of fooling
around, uneven luck.
A set of sharp chisels, a couple of nice saws, and a real need to have them
look perfect all contribute. But mostly, I do corner joints other ways
You might try backer boards, easing into the cut, a higher speed on the
router, holding your tongue just right. Or something else.
believing that the most expensive jigs sometimes aren't all that much
Haven't used scrap wood in that way; the spacer board should provide some
of that function. In addition, I have always used a climb cut on the right
side to avoid chipout, taking very small passes at a time.
If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough
Are you sure your orientation is correct?
Most of the time with the "tail board" chipout is on the back left exit cut,
and that is where you usually use the end grain of a backer board to
Cherry is usually pretty good about routing without a great deal of tearout,
IME, so if you are indeed getting the tearout on the 'right entry cut' of
the tail board, a scrap wood front board might well be your best solution.
With plywood perhaps, but not normally with cherry.
Just a clarification from some of the other posts that seem to be confusing
(at least to me) about using a "climb cut" in relation to board in the Leigh
When facing the jig, a climb cut is from your RIGHT to LEFT on the FRONT
side of the board; and from your LEFT to RIGHT on the BACK/rear side of the
This comes into play more with cutting the through dovetail PIN board with a
straight cutter, and the following is the suggested use of the climb cut in
1. 'Climb cut' lightly from RIGHT to LEFT on the front of the board.
2. Route through to the rear of the board on your RIGHT side jig finger
3. 'Climb cut' lightly from LEFT to RIGHT on the rear side of the board
4. Route back through, to the front of the board, on your LEFT side jig
5. Route out the waste
You can also scribe a line along the back side of your pin board at the
depth of cut if tearout on the back side is a problem.
Yep. I was getting it on the front right entry side (cutting tails with a
dovetail bit). I noticed if I slowed down my initial entry into the board,
the tear out was eliminated.
This has been a little frustrating for me getting this down (through
dovetails) and I really appreciate the feedback!
My next chalenge is learning half blind then rabetted half blind.
If the problem arises for me again even with a slower bit feed rate, I will
use the front scrap board. Thanks.
You're most welcome.
Here are some through dovetails I recently cut in cherry (and walnut) with
the Leigh D4:
IME, the half blinds are a bit more fussy in nature with the Leigh jig, and
is probably what I have used the most down through the years (drawer
What I've learned is to not get too far ahead of myself in batch routing
parts with the jig, and to do more test fitting along the way.
... and the slightest bit of "unsquareness" in the edges of your boards can
really throw off the fit down the road, so it pays to set up as accurate as
possible, SQUARE, crosscut method in your shop - be it a miter saw, or a
table saw sled - as that one step will pay off in the final results ... and
that includes spacer and backer boards (no bow and square edges)!
If you have never done half blind keep in mind that the router bit depth is
very critical and used for both pieces. Never tweak the fit on anything
except scraps as once the cut is made it cannot be recut. You get one shot
at the fit being right.
Rabetted half blind DT's are easy once you have the blind DT's working
right. IIRC you simply cut a bit deeper into the pin piece.
Have fun with that jig.
Yes you can add the board on front however IIRC in the older manual it is
indicated, perhaps yours also, the cut on the front should be initiated with
a light pass going from right to left. Like Barry has indicated, this tends
to be a grabby cut to go lightly. Once you get the initial ledge cut the
full width proceed going in a left to right direction. again taking care on
the back left side when exiting.
Also, "IIRC" chip out on the front of the board gets covered up when
It is not possible to do this when routing the tails (unless I am going to
be making larger pins). The guide pushing is snug in the jig on the left
and right side (unless I open the fingers for larger pins).
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