I am trying out my new half blind dovetail jig and have a few questions:
1) when making drawers, my dado shows up as a hole in the outside of my
drawer. How does one avoid this problem? Not a big issue, but I don't see
the same problem with any of my store bought furniture. I assume that if I
make my dado shallower the problem will go away, but that brings up another
question. How deep in 3/4 stock should my dado be to make a strong joint.
I am using 3/4 ply and would like each drawer to hold at least 100 lbs. (in
case you are wondering, I am going for overkill here.)
2) I am having problems making the two pieces line up top to bottom. It is
off by 1/64 - 1/32nd give or take. The part of the jig which takes care of
this offset seems to be lined up properly and the two pieces are cut to the
same width. This offset messes up my precut dados requiring me to go back
and widen my dados ever just slightly. Is there a newbe answer to this
newbe question? Which brings me to my last question. I am using 3/4 inch
ply, should my dado be 3/4 inch wide or should I give it just a bit more
play since it is a draw bottom.
Correct, the drawer bottom is 3/4" ply, the sides, front and back are all
Toller, Thanks for the suggestion of cutting a rabbit 1/2 the thickness of
the drawer bottom. By doing this I could also make the bottom of the drawer
bottom flush with the bottom of the front, back and sides.
For future reference, you can use 1/4" plywood for a drawer bottom. It is
quite strong. I built my kitchen drawers 16 years ago with some large 22"x
36" drawers that had 1/4" plywood bottoms set in dados 1/4" deep. I could
stand in the drawers turned upside down. I weighed about 190 lbs. at the
With most 3/4" plywood, a 3/4" dado will give you a loose fit, which is
generally what you want in a drawer bottoms.
To be on the safe side, measure the thickness of your plywood before you cut
your dadoes. Plywood, particularly sheets bought at different times, can
vary enough in thickness to make fitting in a dado problematic.
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