Lazy susan and wood expansion

Both daughters want a lazy Susan 18" in diameter.

The rotation ring I will use is shown here

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How do I deal with wood expansion -walnut in this case- in this build.

Thanks for any help

Reply to
swalker
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I made a lazy Susan, 42" in diamater, about 5 years ago. Walnut too.

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Us smaller screws in the holes on the hardware and or drill the hardware holes out larger.

Use washer head screws. The screws are only going to hold the hardware in place, no stress.

Reply to
Leon

How big is the base? Round or square?

What's the diameter of the hardware ?

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Very nice piece Leon.

Your idea will probably work if I don't destroy the ring in the process and if there is room for the screws. The ring is only 3/8" high and the holes are predrilled and counter sunk.

Realizing I need to see the hardware in person to see what is possible.

I spoke yesterday with a woodworker I know about this and his answer was "seal the thing and pray".

Reply to
swalker

There is no base in the sense of 2 pieces of wood seperated by the turning mechaism. The rotational ring is the base. Check out the link in my original post. The ring is 17.5 " diameter.

Reply to
swalker

Sorry - but why is expansion / contraction a special issue on a lazy susan ? as opposed to any other piece of walnut furniture ? John T.

Reply to
hubops

Because there's a piece of metal of substantial diameter involved. And it doesn't expand or contract with humidity.

The easy fix is to just use two holes, with the line connecting them parallel to the grain. The weight of the thing should hold it down.

Reply to
J. Clarke

I don't think this is a special problem. Door panels are loose in their frames so the panel can expand and not warp the door. Table tops aren't screwed directly to the legs/frame. There is some widget in there to allow for expansion. Breadboard ends aren't glued all the way across. There are many other examples of accommodating the inevitable moisture change.

In this case, the bearing is 18" across. If the ring is screwed tightly to the wood, any swelling (or shrinkage) is going to put a force on the ring, either warping the ring and/or the wood. I think that's why Leon suggested under-sized screws or over-sized holes, to allow for this expansion.

Reply to
krw

My response was to Leon's post regarding his 42" Lazy Susan. His Lazy Susan seems to be higher off the table than just the ring, but it could just be resting on something for finishing purposes.

When a square Lazy Susan is uses, there is often a wooden base.

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Reply to
DerbyDad03

18" is not going to expand much at all. You might see 1/16". I would use screws smaller in diameter than the holes in the ring.
Reply to
Leon

I don't recall a base. IIRC the ring had rubber feet.

AND my mistake. The top was only 32" in diameter.

If I had to guess around 24", it was pricey.

Reply to
Leon

Thought it might expand 1/8" or more. At 1/16 inch expansion I will seal it, apply the poly and leave the screws loose.

Thanks again.

Reply to
swalker

swalker,

I had a similar question but didn't get any responses so I'll throw it out here to see what people think. I hope it's not considered hijacking your thread and apologies if it is.

I want to build a lazy Susan about 22" diameter with a similar bearing as you. I'm using ipe decking since I plan to use it outside. I looks kind of plain so I thought about inlaying a steam-bent piece of contrasting wood on the top in a circle about 2" in from the edge. That would cause a cross grain situation and I too am concerned with warping. Any thoughts anyone?

Thanks!

Tom

Reply to
tcr...

Where are you located? If it's a high humidity area and used outdoors wood movement may not be an issue.

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has a climate zone map and some remarks on where ipe works best.

But the surest way to prevent warping is to do the same thing on the top and the bottom.

Reply to
J. Clarke

I would suggest any inlay will fail.

Wood movement outdoors will be extreme.

Ipe will fade to grey with sunlight, like most any other wood including your inlay.

Best bet inlay and completely submerge the whole piece in an epoxy resin. And still sunlight may cause premature failure.

I would suggest any out door wood projects be painted if you want a "relatively" longer lasting finish.

Reply to
Leon

I'm in L.I., New York. Looks like the Group C/D border so Ipe should be ok for me.

I'm starting to think the inlay may be a bad idea. I'll stick with the "small screw" method for mounting the bearing and keep my fingers crossed. Thanks all!

Reply to
tcr...

I managed to please both daughters with the Lazy Susan Christmas project.

And I had a lot of fun making them. I did have some setbacks though. I had bought a walnut log from a guy with a mill and received 7 pieces about 8.5 inches wide, 1 1/8 inches thick and 9 feet long. The log was a lot wetter than either of us figured and so I attempted to dry it enough for the project using silica beads.

Didn't work out so in desperation I made a trip to Wood Craft and purchased the walnut.

Had to plane the boards and one of them had something in it that took a nick out of the planer blades. Once that was sorted I cut the boards the boards 4 inches extra long and glued them together with biscuits. I doubled the biscuits by flipping the boards.

The hardware I had thought I would use was to be from Wood Craft but they sold them and was unable to obtain more so I went yo Amazon and bought the last 2 they had for $21.99. Wood Craft price was $47. No longer available on Amazon at that price.

Originally the plan was to cut the circle using my piece of crap band saw but the more I thought about it I didn't want to risk a goof so the glued pieces were rough cut at 19+ inches and mounted on a lathe and turned true. Actual finish width was about 19.5 inches.

Both piece have about 15 coats of gloss WOP followed with 5 coats of satin WOP.

Pictures in alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking

Best to all in the coming year.

Reply to
swalker

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