On Tue, 27 Apr 2010 01:43:14 -0400, the infamous "J. Clarke"
YOU, sir, have obviously never cut a pressure treated piece of lumber
in half. The core is never, in my experience, fully treated. Copper
solutions only penetrate about 1/4", as discussed above.
That's why I keep 2 colors of dye/preservative in my truck. I have to
daub it on the cut ends of PT lumber when I'm done so it matches and
is protected from bugs and moisture. http://fwd4.me/EMu brown (most
used) and http://fwd4.me/EMy (green) are what I've found locally.
I've been using the epoxy coated deck screws, but find that upon
removal, half the epoxy is rubbed off. I'm in the process of
converting my stock to galv once again. I want my hard work to
outlast me. Square drive is definitely the best answer, too, with
combo (pozi and square) the next best thing. TORX is quite good, as
well, but square is my fave.
Losing faith in humanity, one person at a time.
So, I learned *two* things this week.
They are mutually contradictory, but I stand by my count.
Larry, can I use regular wood glue to bond inner fibers of PT doug fir?
Would epoxy work better? Some other adhesive perhaps?
Yup, I have a can of 'environmentally friendly' sealant for cut ends.
It seems to work because I saw no deterioration in some diagonally cut
4 x 4 s that lived in the sun and rain for a decade.
Ya got that right! I tested my first square drive fasteners in lumber
a couple days ago. Absolutely *no* cam-out, even with a 2-1/2" long
screw into dry wood. Solid, Jackson.
Discovered an interesting thing (parenthetically speaking).
The same screws are sold in entirely different ways per market.
Butting in, any glue will glue but some glue better. PVA (white glue) is no
good around water. Aliphatic ("yellow glue") may or not be OK...type one
isn't good around water; type 2 is "water resisant" which should be fine;
type 3 is waterproof.
Also water proof are epoxy, Resorcinol, and urea-formaldehyde glues such as
Weldwood Plastic Resin. All are overkill for your project IMO.
Epoxy is good for joining less than good joints when it is thickened with
something like Cab-o-Sil.
A circular saw and a chisel followed by a flat bastard file gets the
Assemble with some laminating epoxy thickened with micro-balloons and
clamp lightly to hold while epoxy "kicks".
Enjoy a cold beer while observing your craftsmanship and watching
Prepare for next project.
Take this to the bank: use a "construction adhesive" that is formulated
for pressure treated wood.
One that immediately comes to mind, and should be easy to find at the
BORG, is "Liquid Nails - Subfloor".
Simply put, disregard anything else you read on this issue in this
thread about gluing with other types of woodworking glues ...
If I'm reading your intent correctly, the corner would be grain at
90-deg angles. Such a cross-grain joint will fail shortly even w/o the
exposure to weather. Forget the glue; if anything, a flexible glue
_might_ help serve as a moisture barrier similar to a caulk. The
abutted faces will be a moisture wicking point.
As for cutting them, I make the shoulder cut w/ the circular saw and
then use the bow saw (rip blade) to cut the length. Some practice and
can do that as clean or cleaner than any other way and as quickly as well.
Even with screws through the facing boards and through the lap joints?
I had no idea doug fir was that weak. I shall have to rethink this.
Perhaps I should weld up a steel box tube frame and use tek screws
to hold the facing boards to the front. That'd work but I suspect
it would have to be powder coated. This woodworking stuff is more
complicated than I thought it would be!
I can't even place a proper axial cut with a band saw!
As you say above, it would all fall apart quickly anyway.
This is educational. Thanks for your thoughts.
Harley was venal, arrogant, despicable and a psychologist.
He was the second most redundant man I ever talked to.
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