My dad passed away in 1998. He loved power tools. Today I was going through the
attic and found an almost new Craftsman 315.276040 3 HP Electronic Plunge
Router. It was purchased new in 1992 for $215.00 Now I'm going to have to go
through everything to see what's there.
Now I need to learn how to use it. Question: Is it possible to use a plunge
router in a router table? I really like the 3HP size of the motor.
In principle yes, altho you might have to modify the base to attach to the
Note, tho, that 3 Sears HP = 1 Porter Cable HP. No foolin....
Sears used locked-rotor current (stalled motor current) to calc their hp --
a total scam.
OK, my bad:
3 Sears hp = 1.1 Porter Cable hp.
Sears motor rating policy is common knowledge.
You can verify this for yourself with an ampprobe -- lock the spindle with a
vise grip, or wood in circular saw blade, or whatever, and measure the
current. Multiply by 120, then divide by 746. Wahlah -- their hp rating.
Now, take same circ saw, wail on a 4x4 until you "feel" that it is
counterproductive to push harder, measure the current, calc as above. That
would be the "real" hp rating, proly 1/3 the above locked rotor current,
mebbe even 1/10.
Do the same for a Porter Cable.
iirc, the FTC or some equivalent org made Sears suposedly stop this
practice, a few years ago.
Sears is no cute li'l retail bunny. After they were caught in NYS in their
auto repair ripoff scam, they were sued in mebbe a dozen other states, coast
to coast. google sears auto repair lawsuit.
Unfortly, google dudn't reveal much on their motor rating scam, but who
would expect less of Sears?
The only thing I question is the statement that the 3 hp Sears is the same
as the 1 hp Porter Cable. Yes, they do use the locked rotor method, but
they all do. Many companies offer a 3 hp router. Does anyhone think you'd
have a real 3 hp motor in your hands like that?
Look here for hte ratings of some
When you get into table saws, the better brands use real numbers. Most are
1.5 to 32 hp, but Sers is something like 4.5 on their little saws.
Notice the high end 3 hp saws
Notice that Sears no longer gives HP ratings. This u sed to be 4.5 hp. Now
it is 13A.
On Wed, 06 Jan 2010 05:58:53 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
Yes, seems to be a marketing trick (the same way that hard disk
manufacturers lie about the capacities of their drives). Once one company
starts doing it, they all do as otherwise their product seems inferior.
Thankfully the power's only part of what makes for a good product, I
suppose, and there are always places like this group where folk can ask
what the best buy for a particular price range is...
I've never quite understood the point of using current draw as a
marketing tool - I mean, 13A might imply a powerful motor, but it might
also mean a shit motor and lots of friction in whatever mechanism the
motor is connected to. It seems pretty meaningless (other than to know
whether it's going to melt your wiring or trip breakers ;-)
I recently got a book "Woodworking with the Router", Bill Hylton. He
says "The industry standard is to report peak horsepower on a universal
motor, ... and continuous horsepower on an induction motor, the type
used in stationary power tools." It makes some sense. Induction motors
are more often used for long periods at their rated HP. Universal motors
(brush type) often are used for very short periods. You can use the peak
HP of a drill for a short time. I believe he is talking about HP that is
measured as HP, not as derived from current.
Well, I corrected that to 1.1 porter cable hps.... :)
But seriously, that part was "said for effect", altho it could might well be
true.... I'll post more on this later.
I can't imagine a responsible company using the locked-rotor method, tho.
But, brush motors can get very powerful in small sizes. iirc, you have
these little bitty table top race cars with motors the size of a AAA cell,
that are a good fraction -- perhaps the better fraction -- of a hp! Due to
Whether you would WANT a true 3 hp in a hand-held router -- or if yer 15 A
breaker could take it -- is another story.
However, be careful -- that ignerint asshole Salty Dog is going to ask you
for cite after cite, and accuse you of making all this up if you can't
I understand that different manufacturers can rate things differently, but this
router weighs twice as much as my 1 HP router. It's almost too heavy to handle.
It has a knob sticking up for plunge dept adjustment. It has a very fine thread
on it. Since I have not used it, I don't how accurate it will be, but it should
do fine for my hacking.
I probably would not have purchased a 3HP (or whatever) router for my presently
minimal needs, but it will be great to have a second router that uses 1/2" bits,
plus I won't have to change bits as often when I'm using both routers.
Yea a long time ago :-(
IIRC he plunged it on a countertop or something and it just went everywhere
and dragged him with it. Might have been the same episode (well, maybe not)
where he turbo charged the dishwasher in the island and it blew a huge hole
out of the back like a military round.
The plunge mechanism is controlled by a couple of springs trapped in
the plunge mechanism. It is not too big a deal to remove the springs
if you want to mount the router in a table. The trick then becomes
how to "dial in" a specific bit height. You may be better off saving
your pennies for one of those Triton (made in Australia?) routers that
come with the "above the table" bit height crank knob. There are also
good plans online for bit height adjusters that are basically a chunk
of all-thread and a plywood disc.
Make sure to invest in some hearing protection... routers really
The best router table I have ever had was a replacement wing for my
table saw... I can use the table saw fence for the router, and I
save a whole bunch of space in my shop. The wing was kind of pricey,
but then again so is buying/building a good standalone router table.
Get yourself a good book on routers, or visit the library and check
out a couple. Keep a good grip while using it, they are deceptively
Best of luck!
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