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Rather than buying two machines, why cant you put boards on their edge and run them through a planer? Just a thought. I struggeling with the (Should I get aplaner or jointer first thing) I have acess to rough cut 1 inch thick lumber. It looks cut fairly straight. came from a flooring company.
Because it would be difficult to keep a board standing on edge and especially when it is not a 90 degree edge to start with. If you have a TS you can easily straighten a board using a sled but only after flattening the board.
I think you will find a planer more useful. I use the planer to flatten rough cut boards with a sled.
You can do it, yes.
But it's rather like teaching a pig to sing - the results aren't pretty and it annoys the hell out of the pig.
You can also joint with a router.
Gus
I thought you could plane on a jointer but not joint on a planer? Something like that. There are jointer-planers and thickness planers IIRC. But I never used either so im only going from what I read.
I could use a planer myself. I see a dewalt power hand planer looks nice. Then mix in a router for the jointing and I should be set on the cheap :P
Well if you have a table saw you can joint on that if you make the jig for it, somewhere on the net is a free plan for one, I recently saw it from a previous post. You can also edge joint with a long hand plane like a Stanley No. 7 and a fence on it, and you can face joint on a jointer, as a planing task. Your choice what to buy for how you want to work. There is also (here and there) the Incra 570, like a Euro machine it does both jobs over and under using one cutter head, take a look, eB*y searcher: 7589185479.... in your situation I'd get an electric planer (for width of the boards) and a long hand plane with a fence if I didn't have a table saw, and I don't.
Fri, Feb 17, 2006, 5:48am (EST-3) snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com (stryped) doth wonder: x-no-archive:yes Rather than buying two machines, why cant you put boards on their edge and run them through a planer? Just a thought. I struggeling with the (Should I get aplaner or jointer first thing) I have acess to rough cut
1 inch thick lumber. It looks cut fairly straight. came from a flooring company.Make a planer sled.
JOAT IThere is no vaccine against stupidity!
I've never tried it but.... some carpenters working in a house down the street from us would cut all of their closet cleats which were 3 1/2" wide, stand about four of them against each other and run them through the planer (standing on edge) to joint the edges. Being closet cleats I'm sure they weren't too concerned about the edges being square to the face but it worked for them. BTW, they didn't have a jointer on the job.
Mike O.
I did this with passage door stiles - 7' long, 3" wide and 1-1/4" thick (actually, bi-fold closet door panels, so didn't need the "regular"
1-3/8" thick stock).Didn't stack them, just one at a time. I have CI infeed and outfeed on my planer, so probably 4' of material support at one time. No problems
I had my stock at final thickness, but the boards were about 7" wide, so I could rip them into two stiles. KNEW they would crook (hopefully not twist, and they didn't), so I cut them at 3-3/16". Re-jointed the newly-formed concave side :^) and then put them through the planer on edge to get to final 3" width.
-Chris
Wils> You have to be pretty thick or stack as mentioned.
As others have described you can run boards on edge through a planer 'to clean up the edge' .... not the same as "jointing" the edge, however. It will not straighten the boards, only plane a smooth edge. If the opposite edge of the board isn't already straight, it will just follow the same curve due to the force of the pressure rollers. If as you say, it's fairly straight, you might be ok. Likewise, before thicknessing a board in a planer the face should first be flattened on a jointer.(assuming rough stock) While it is possible to create a sled for a planer that will allow you to adjust for cupping/twist etc., It would involve some effort to get it right. IMO Again, if it isn't flat on one side to begin with, the other side will just end up parallel to it, not necessarily flat.
Lenny
Its gonna take 3 machines, unless you want to square lumber by traditional means, which is fine by me, but someone once told me that if one of the woodworkers from 100 or 200 years ago had access to power tools.........they would have jumped on them fast. I tend to agree. Not to put down the purists out there, but power tools usually make more sense, especially for mundane tasks such as squaring lumber.
Running board on their edge through a planner? If anyone runs a board (rough or S4S for that matter) on its edge through a planner..........anywhere near me....I'm gonna take a few steps back, like about 50.
Using a sled to joint on a planer.......sounds a lot better than it works.
The bottom line is this: if you want your projects to fit and look great you have to start with damn near perfectly squared lumber on 4 sides.
The only way you are going to convert rough lumber or S2S etc to perfect square with "power tools" is by using 3 different tools. A jointer, a planner, and a table saw.
A jointer first; you flatten one face of the board. A planner second; you run the board you just flattened on one side through the planner with the face you flatttened on the jointer down. When you are done flattening the second face in the planner, its back to the jointer to square one edge. When that is done you run the squared edge against the fence on a table saw and rip cut the final edge square.
That's the way you square lumber accurately. There really isn't a cheap way out that delivers excellent results.
If cash is short, you're better off buying fun (less expensive) tools like a router first and purchasing your hardwoods from a lumber store that will square the wood for you (at a cost of course). At least then you will have sqaured stock to begin with and your projects will turn out better.
You can set yourself up for failure by using stock that isn't square. Its easy for someone starting out to think they just aren't any good at this stuff because they're working with stock that isn't square to begin with. The projects they create don't measure up to what they hoped for. They're liable to think they just don't have the knack when it has nothing to do with their abilities....sadly they may give up the hobby as a result.
Its like a guy who buys a cheap guitar with terrible action and gives up because it's too hard to play & learn.....when all the time the cheap guitar is to blame. Had he started out with a decent instrument, it wouldn't have been so hard to play.
Don't set yourself up for failure........use square lumber........if you don't have the funds to buy a table saw and the more boring and expensive tools (IE jointer & planner) right now.... purchase lumber that is square and start saving your pennies for these three tools. What order should you buy them? I think everyone would agree table saw first, then you'd get some differences of opionion as to what to buy second and third. I'd buy the planer second and start using prepared S2S lumber instead of S4S which would be a little cheaper and then I'd have more pennies to stock away to buy the jointer last.
My $ 0.02,
RRRangerPaul
Fri, Feb 17, 2006, 10:40pm (EST-1) snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net (Ranger=A0Paul) Using a sled to joint on a planer.......sounds a lot better than it works.
Ever try one? Mine does an excellent job.
JOAT IThere is no vaccine against stupidity!
Ranger Paul seems to be an expert, with very realistic and professional opinions. But you can STILL joint on a table saw... I would use a thin kerf blade:
$1.95 for this jig plan:
What do you figure that power hand plane will do for you?
That will give you one edge parrallel to the other. If the reference edge is not straight, the 'jointed' edge will not be straight either.
If the board to be jointed is firmly mounted to a sled that has a straight reference face, then that would work.
For small jobs jointing with a hand plane is easy and fun.
There is nothing to ensure square.
I can see problems using a thin kerf blade to straighten/joint a board. If cutting a minimum off of the board and only one side of the blade is doing the cutting which is VERY OFTEN the case when using a TS to straighten boards the blade is going to deflect more than normal.
No. The very different machines. A surface planer will snipe. A jointer produces a 90-degree straight edge which a planer can not produce. If you must decide between two machines I'd buy the surface planer and joint using a hand jointer (plane). Hand surface planing is very time-consuming and requires more skill than using a hand plane.
While the "correct" answer is no you cannot use a planer to edge joint, in some instances you can. Several times I've gang-jointed narrow boards in a planer. The edges have to be pretty square and straight to begin with and it's probably not a very good idea for boards wider than a few inches. It's also a good way to quickly produce a bunch of narrow boards that need to be exactly the same width.
I well understand the problems in achieving a perfect 90 degree edge using such a method, but for narrow boards ganged together that are square (or nearly square) to begin with, the results are pretty good and may be perfectly good for the application.
Joe Barta
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