Up to now I have been buying my lumber S4S. I recently purchased a 12"
planer and have a 6" jointer. I'll true the face of any boards less
than 6" on the jointer and then plane to thickness. How do I handle
boards wider than 6"? Will the chatter marks on the rough cut lumber
impede getting a smooth surface if I run it through the planer as is? I
could experiment, but why mess up a decent board? <G>
You can plane right away.. but it will only make the board smooth, not flat.
A planer will take out cup (you maya have to alternatively take a nibble off
each fave if the board is thin or baddly cupped), but it will not remove bow
If your stock if pretty straight and you're not too really anal, it will
work just fine. I have an 8" jointer but bump into the same problem
occaisionally. If I want, say a 10" wide (unspliced) single piece of wood
for a pannel, I'll just go directly to the planer (or mitigate as stated
1. rip to <6" then joint
2. mitigate bow or twist by jointing the 6" that you can and then rotating
to get the other side of the face. take small bites.
3. mitigate bow or twist with an hand plane to knock off the high spots.
BTW always crosscut to rough length first
If the board's not too much wider than the jointer's capacity (25%
maybe?) and the grain not too argumentative, I'll pull off the guard
and make a few light passes while turning the board fore and aft. I
can usually get an acceptable/consistant face that'll allow the planer
to flatten the other side just fine, then turn her over and plane the
originally jointed face. Or just rip down to the jointer's width,
mill then glue as StephenM wrote. Tom
Pull off the guard on a jointer? Do you have ANY idea how incredibly
dangerous that is?
That guard does more than just cover that meat-grinder. It is also an
That cutter will pull your hand IN and there will be no hope of
anybody sewing a bucket of slime back onto your wrist.
It's specifically designed for the task -- that's why there's the
extension table on the front and the rabbet removed for stock clearance
and the support on the rear bed.
Lengthwise, it's the tool of choice...
So will I. It is not necessary, not safe and not what a jointer is
designed to do.
If that 'feature' is mentioned, I think it is because that particular
model 'needs' another feature because the rest of it is suspect.
It almost always has been a design feature -- look at any vintage text
or manufacturer's literature. That either one may be too young to have
learned it or simply started after the router became ubiquitous is quite
likely a major factor...
It still works "most excellent" for the purpose...
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