Before I make any comments It would be nice to know the following:
"Looking to upgrade from my 30" What to you mean by 30 inches? Is this the
length of the bed?
The other question what do you intend to do with your new jointer. Do you
have access to 220 volts and how will you dispose of the wood chips?
Oops sorry....6" x 30-35" bed. Ok for 220v in shop, dust collector system
hooked up to the one I have. Guess I'm just after a longer bed to be able
to do longer boards and while buying that thought there may be other thing i
should be looking for. thanks
The type of jointer is function of what you are doing.
As for me I use a jointer to line hardwood and softwood boards before
ripping and then gluing. If the boards are badly crooked, bowed, cupped or
twisted I use the jointer to correct the flatness of the board before
ripping and thickness planning.
I make an effort to glue no wider than 6 inches. Therefore a 6 inches
jointer with a decent length of bed to make dinning table suits me fine. As
for collecting the wood chips I made a little cyclone that fills a plastic
Here are the specs of my jointer made in China:
Motor: 1 HP, 110/220 volt (wired 110V) ball bearing motor
Precision ground, cast iron tables, bed size 7" ox 45 3/4"
Inclined dovetail ways with precision gib adjustment
Both tables adjustable (rear table designed for rabbet cuts)
Cutter head has 3 H.S.S knives and 5000 RPM approx.
Max. cut - 1/2"
Precision ground cast iron fence (centre mounted) positive stops at 45
and 90 degree
Steel stand with enclosed chip chute gives 32" working height
Gross weight: 108 kg.
I have two 6" jointers. My first one is made out of aluminums and I find it
too light for long pieces of hardwood. I appreciate the weight of my new
one and it well suited to line off 6 to 7 feet long boards.
When you buy your new jointer I would suggest that you purchase an extra set
of knifes and a settling jig.
I only pay $19.00 CAD for a set of HSS knife made in China.
I am fortunate to have a guy that cater to lumber mills and he does all my
sharpening. For a set of three knifes he charges me $12.00 CAD. The
sharpening machine he uses is computer assist. The diamond wheels are set
for HSS or Carbide.
You should be thinking of whether you want or need. As your fellow Canadian
has said in his response, boards over 6" are usually ripped to escape
cupping. As I say, boards over 70" are seldom used, which is why a 35" bed
is more than enough, and more comfortable in a small shop. You can join
longer, of course, and it's really not the jointer that will get in the way
of a good join, but the operator, who will have to control the flopping
board. If you're moving up from an aluminum benchtop screamer to an iron
induction machine, you can expect to get batter performance and
repeatability in the same width class.
Up at the college we had a 16 with a six or seven foot bed on it. Seems you
can have the "best" and do poorly, because some Nimrod was always just
slapping a board on the table without sighting and pressing without paying
attention to tipping if the piece was twisted.
Why the policy is to account for wood in the rough, not the finish. Lots of
thin stuff created at the jointer. Narrower than required too, as they
chased the bow.... Never could figure why someone would join a six foot by
six inch board on a 16" jointer when there was a six available.
You may want to consider sticking with what you have. I have had a small 6"
jointer for about 23 years and seldom use it. On more than one occasion I
have considered getting rid of it and not having a jointer at all. Last
year I straightened and flattened 200 BF of rough sawn 8' long Oak and none
of it went near the jointer. I used a sled with my planer to flatten the
boards on one side and an 8' sled on my TS to straighten one edge. More and
mare you find available S2S-ripped straight one edge lumber that is ready to
go straight to the TS or planer.
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