My wife bought me a used BS for Father's day (you gotta love 'em.... the wife... and the tools too!) The table has some rust spots on it. I was wondering if it is worth getting the table resurfaced (surface ground or sanded). I could use a stone and oil then recoat. I got some Boeshield rust remover at a woodworking show, and could try that. I just thought a resurfacing would eliminate any "bumps". If so, where can I get it redone?
Thanks Frank Raleigh nc
OOps JET
Boeshield is good for rust prevention, not removal. Top Saver is great for rust removal. It is about $20 for a kit. You get the spray, a couple of scrubbie things, wiping rag, plastic gloves. You can get Top Saver from Woodcraft and probably many other places.
Just spray it on, let it sit a few minutes and take the scrubbing thing to it and you'll be amazed at how it comes out. Once cleaned, protect it with periodic treatments of Boeshield. Ed
dude, it's a tool not a piece of furniture.
take a wad of steel wool and a squirt of wd40 and get the surface rust off. coat it with boeshield or wax or whatever and cut some wood.
no matter *what* you use on it the iron will darken with age. it's not a bad thing.
if the table is warped getting it ground makes sense.
Thanks I have the rust remover from Boeshiels (I got the rest remover T9 and gum remover at Charlotte NC Show. I guess I'll try a stone to remove the "bumps" and use the topcoat. Just picky...
Thanks
snipped-for-privacy@bellsouth-ANTISPAM-.net wrote:
snipped-for-privacy@bellsouth-ANTISPAM-.net wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@bellsouth.net:
Like Bridger said, it's a BANDSAW. You're still going to have to use at least one other tool to clean things up after you cut stock with this, probably more than one.
Clean it. Wax it. Put a new, sharp blade in it. Enjoy it. Make some sawdust. That's why your wife bought it for you, I suppose. Unless she just wanted to get you out of the house for the evening ;-)
Patriarch
snipped-for-privacy@bellsouth-ANTISPAM-.net wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@bellsouth.net:
Like Bridger said, it's a BANDSAW. You're still going to have to use at least one other tool to clean things up after you cut stock with this, probably more than one.
Clean it. Wax it. Put a new, sharp blade in it. Enjoy it. Make some sawdust. That's why your wife bought it for you, I suppose. Unless she just wanted to get you out of the house for the evening ;-)
Patriarch
I've used a combination of 0000 steel wool, WD-40, and Barkeeper's Friend to clean off rust spots on my table saw. Sure brightened it up! Follow up with either Johnson's Paste Wax or Boeshield.
Frank, Did the Fence and Miter Gage come with it ?
I ask because I have a 'set' of those items, NEW - in their UNOPENED boxes. Yes, they are for the 14inch Open Stand saw.
All I want is what I spent for them . . . Amazon cheap prices. . . but I'm open to negotiation. I'll probably be needing/wanting a 6 inch Riser kit and good Re-Saw blades, so I figure here's a way to get them before the URGENT 'requirement' comes up.
I know the 'kit' you are talking about . . . got the same items. I tend to have highly corrosive sweat . . . stuff is always rusting up on me. Get a supply of 'Medium' 3-M pads {the 'non-metallic' steel wool} in the 4x9 inch size. Get a 'chunk' of that 'non-slip' cloth and cut a piece about the same size, and a piece of 1/2 or 3/4 ply, or MDF. Make a a pile . . .3-M pad - 'non-slip' - ply. Spray the 'cleaner' liberally on the table, then apply the 'pile' using both hands and a straight back&forth motion . . . like Holystoning a deck. Wipe with a dry paper towel. If some rust remains . . . wet it and do it again. You can use the same 'arrangement' with a strip of
340 or 400 grit Carbide paper to check for flatness . . . or courser then progressively finer grits to actually flatten it yourself. Use the edge of a piece of ply {THINNER then the miter slot} with a piece of the 3-M folded around it . . . make sure to get the inside corners.Now here is the KEY . . . That 'remover' is Oxalic Acid {just like Teak cleaner}. The metal table will now be ACTIVE and VERY prone to rust. BEFORE you apply the cleaner, make a solution of water and a little Baking Soda. NOW apply that solution to the table to neutralize any acid which will be in the PORES of the cast iron. Wipe dry, and rinse with ALCOHOL - to remove any residual water. Now spray with the Boeshield and wipe dry. Wait about an hour or two . . . then spray again, only this time gently wipe it . . . more of a smear than a removal.
Except for the waiting, the entire process shouldn't take more than about
30-minutes. The important thing is it LASTS. I found out the hard way, the rust starts in the pores and WILL keep coming back.Another thing . . . keep 'regular air' away from the saw table. Fortunately I got my hands on some HUGH Vapor Inhibitor bags {actually taller than the saw !!}. I pull one over the saw when it is not in use, and do the same with my Grizzly Drill Press. For smaller equipment {or if I didn't have these bags} I use clear, plastic trash bags . . . and a couple of 'chips' of Vapor Inhibiting material. The same stuff is sold in perforated 'tins', etc. under the 'Bullfrog' and other brand names.
Regards & Good Luck,
Regards & Thanks, Ron Magen Backyard Boatshop
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