Cleaning up an old table saw

There's an old Craftsman table saw in the basement of the building my Dad h= ad his office in. It's probably 30 years old, and never saw much use. I'm t= rying to fix it up a bit to use it on occasion.=20

I know that Craftsman is held in low regard here, but perhaps I can prevail= on the nice folks here for some advice.=20

Rust: The main table surface had a fair amount of surface rust, but hardly any "b= ubbling". The "wings", if that's the right term were more badly rusted arou= nd the edges, which had been bare metal.=20

I went at it with Scotch-Brite and a rotary wire brush. The main table surf= ace came out passably well, I think. The wing edges still look rusty, but I= flattened them down enough, I think.=20

I had doused the whole thing pretty liberally with WD-40 a couple of weeks = ago, before I did any brushing. So now I have a slurry of rust particles an= d WD-40 covering the table top. I could use some sort of degreaser to get i= t off, but then I imagine I'd need to cover it with something to keep it fr= om rusting again. Wax, I'm thinking.=20

Any better ideas?

Reply to
Greg Guarino
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On Sat, 11 Feb 2012 13:45:50 -0800 (PST), Greg Guarino

Boeshield T-9® Protectant and Lubricant

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Reply to
Dave

had his office in. It's probably 30 years old, and never saw much use. I'm= trying to fix it up a bit to use it on occasion.

il on the nice folks here for some advice.

"bubbling". The "wings", if that's the right term were more badly rusted ar= ound the edges, which had been bare metal.

rface came out passably well, I think. The wing edges still look rusty, but= I flattened them down enough, I think.

s ago, before I did any brushing. So now I have a slurry of rust particles = and WD-40 covering the table top. I could use some sort of degreaser to get= it off, but then I imagine I'd need to cover it with something to keep it = from rusting again. Wax, I'm thinking.

Does it have cast iron wings or stamped metal? If cast iron, it is probably more like 40+ years old and you might have one of the older, better Craftsman saws. Many of the iron extension tables had a open triangular grid design. If it is one of the older ones it probably has a cast fence vs the sheet metal fence of the 70's and later saws. Craftsman did make pretty good machine tools prior to the 1970's when they apparently sold out to their accountants.

Try naval gel, scotchbrite and lots of elbow grease. BUT make sure you get the gel off because it can corrode.

RonB

Reply to
RonB

his office in. It's probably 30 years old, and never saw much use. I'm trying to fix it up a bit to use it on occasion.

the nice folks here for some advice.

"bubbling". The "wings", if that's the right term were more badly rusted around the edges, which had been bare metal.

came out passably well, I think. The wing edges still look rusty, but I flattened them down enough, I think.

before I did any brushing. So now I have a slurry of rust particles and WD-40 covering the table top. I could use some sort of degreaser to get it off, but then I imagine I'd need to cover it with something to keep it from rusting again. Wax, I'm thinking.

As RonB noted some of the older C'man table saws were not bad at all. You may have a keeper.

Clean your "slurry" off with paper towels and paint thinner (PT) (assuming you have adequate ventalation). Feel the metal with the palm of your hand. Think "smooth" rather than "flat" - it's unlikely that your scothbrite action has made it much less flat than it was to start with. If you find rough spots or see obvious rust (not pitting, but rust) try naval jelly (as RonB suggested) or a product called RustFree from the makers of Boeshield T-9. in extremous, don't be afraid to use

400 grit wet-dry sandpaper on a flat block lubed with PT. Just get the rust off or it WILL spread.

Once it's rust free, clean again with PT. Someone suggested Boeshield T-9 as a top coat. It's great stuff for rust prevention, but it's not real slick. Johnson's paste wax works fine, but needs to be redone after use as it wears off quickly where the boards slide over it. I use Bostick TopCote on my saws, jointer, planer table, etc. and have been very happy. It's slick, it lasts, and I have no problems with rust. I do rub the surfaces down with white metal polish (a 9" orbital buffer works great!), clean with PT, and redo the TopCote every 3 or 4 months, but that is, for me, just basic field maintenance.

Regards.

Tom

Reply to
Tom

Topcote is great stuff. But wax (I use Trewax) works fine and seems to build in the pores over time. When I wax a new saw I have to redo soon as you say. After the first few times though, the interval gradually increases from weekly to monthly to quarterly to annually.

Reply to
Larry Blanchard

There's an old Craftsman table saw in the basement of the building my Dad had his office in. It's probably 30 years old, and never saw much use. I'm trying to fix it up a bit to use it on occasion.

I know that Craftsman is held in low regard here, but perhaps I can prevail on the nice folks here for some advice.

Rust: The main table surface had a fair amount of surface rust, but hardly any "bubbling". The "wings", if that's the right term were more badly rusted around the edges, which had been bare metal.

I went at it with Scotch-Brite and a rotary wire brush. The main table surface came out passably well, I think. The wing edges still look rusty, but I flattened them down enough, I think.

I had doused the whole thing pretty liberally with WD-40 a couple of weeks ago, before I did any brushing. So now I have a slurry of rust particles and WD-40 covering the table top. I could use some sort of degreaser to get it off, but then I imagine I'd need to cover it with something to keep it from rusting again. Wax, I'm thinking.

Any better ideas? ========================================================== Kerosene. It will clean up the old crud and won't cause rust.

Reply to
CW

Does it have cast iron wings or stamped metal? If cast iron, it is probably more like 40+ years old and you might have one of the older, better Craftsman saws. Many of the iron extension tables had a open triangular grid design. If it is one of the older ones it probably has a cast fence vs the sheet metal fence of the 70's and later saws. Craftsman did make pretty good machine tools prior to the 1970's when they apparently sold out to their accountants.

Try naval gel, scotchbrite and lots of elbow grease. BUT make sure you get the gel off because it can corrode. ============================================================ Navel jelly will etch the surfaces. Just kerosene and scotchbrite. No matter if the metal gets shiny or not, smooth is what you are after.

RonB

Reply to
CW

his office in. It's probably 30 years old, and never saw much use. I'm trying to fix it up a bit to use it on occasion.

the nice folks here for some advice.

"bubbling". The "wings", if that's the right term were more badly rusted around the edges, which had been bare metal.

came out passably well, I think. The wing edges still look rusty, but I flattened them down enough, I think.

before I did any brushing. So now I have a slurry of rust particles and WD-40 covering the table top. I could use some sort of degreaser to get it off, but then I imagine I'd need to cover it with something to keep it from rusting again. Wax, I'm thinking.

Wipe off what you can with rags or paper towel, then use Top Saver on it to get the rest of the rust. Incredible stuff.

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works, but, IMO, Boeshield (spray can stuff) is better. Do not use automotive wax with silicone.

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

had his office in. It's probably 30 years old, and never saw much use. I'm= trying to fix it up a bit to use it on occasion.

il on the nice folks here for some advice.

"bubbling". The "wings", if that's the right term were more badly rusted ar= ound the edges, which had been bare metal.

rface came out passably well, I think. The wing edges still look rusty, but= I flattened them down enough, I think.

s ago, before I did any brushing. So now I have a slurry of rust particles = and WD-40 covering the table top. I could use some sort of degreaser to get= it off, but then I imagine I'd need to cover it with something to keep it = from rusting again. Wax, I'm thinking.

Drench the top with WD-40. Slap a gray Scotchbrite pad onto the bottom of your radial orbit sander and go at it. Wipe dry and hit it with a couple of coats of paste wax.

Reply to
Father Haskell

his office in. It's probably 30 years old, and never saw much use. I'm trying to fix it up a bit to use it on occasion.

the nice folks here for some advice.

"bubbling". The "wings", if that's the right term were more badly rusted around the edges, which had been bare metal.

came out passably well, I think. The wing edges still look rusty, but I flattened them down enough, I think.

before I did any brushing. So now I have a slurry of rust particles and WD-40 covering the table top. I could use some sort of degreaser to get it off, but then I imagine I'd need to cover it with something to keep it from rusting again. Wax, I'm thinking.

Boesheild???

Reply to
clare

------------------------------------- Use any of the phosphoric acid based rust desolvers such as navel jelly.

Sand with 150 grit and WD40.

Wipe clean and wax frequently until wax build up has happened.

Have fun.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

his office in. It's probably 30 years old, and never saw much use. I'm trying to fix it up a bit to use it on occasion.

the nice folks here for some advice.

"bubbling". The "wings", if that's the right term were more badly rusted around the edges, which had been bare metal.

came out passably well, I think. The wing edges still look rusty, but I flattened them down enough, I think.

ago, before I did any brushing. So now I have a slurry of rust particles and WD-40 covering the table top. I could use some sort of degreaser to get it off, but then I imagine I'd need to cover it with something to keep it from rusting again. Wax, I'm thinking.

get a grill stone for the final polish, then cut the mess (after rags) with brake cleaner. Have the wings sandblasted, and powdercoated, and protect by keeping dry.

Reply to
Steve Barker

I do what has been recommend but have a piece of plywood cut to the size of the table saw, that keep the humid air from directly contacting the table.

Reply to
Keith Nuttle

his office in. It's probably 30 years old, and never saw much use. I'm trying to fix it up a bit to use it on occasion.

the nice folks here for some advice.

Well it doesn't have Saw Stop tech, so use it at your own risk.

"bubbling". The "wings", if that's the right term were more badly rusted around the edges, which had been bare metal.

The best way to remove serious rust is with Naval Jell. It works effortlessly, even on thick rust.

came out passably well, I think. The wing edges still look rusty, but I flattened them down enough, I think.

This is OK on rust that began a few minutes ago. Rust that is starting to "bubble" needs Naval Jell.

ago, before I did any brushing. So now I have a slurry of rust particles and WD-40 covering the table top. I could use some sort of degreaser to get it off, but then I imagine I'd need to cover it with something to keep it from rusting again. Wax, I'm thinking.

Get all the WD-40 off (lacquer thinner works for me) before using the Naval Jell. After cleaning off all the naval jell with rags and water, wipe down with lacquer thinner and immediately spray with Bostik TopCote. Your top will be slick as ICE and rust will be history with some minor maintenance. (Spray on a another coat every few months, takes a few seconds and no effort.) If any of the rust "bubbled", the jell will remove it, but the rust pits will remain. No biggie, just looks a little funky.

No. I've been through all this and speak from experience. TopCote will prevent rust and is slick as ice. In a normal environment it will last a long time. My first shop was in a basement with water problems and I became an expert on this. Wax does not cut it, it is not as slick as TopCote, and is harder to apply, and does not last. I even went so far as to melt wax in lacquer thinner and paint it on my tops, still got rust as the wax quickly wears off. Some say to use Boseshield T-9, but in some very lengthy discussions on this subject in the rec, I don't think it's as good as Topcote, not slick enough among other things. I never used it though, so I have to go by what was said about it in the rec.

Reply to
Jack

That may not hurt, but unless the fit of plywood to table is airtight and the plywood is sealed (and *not* with latex) I don't think it'll do any good.

In some environments it may even trap moisture.

If it works for you, great. But I wouldn't suggest it as a general solution.

Reply to
Larry Blanchard

I have never seen any rust on my 1948 Delta saw except when I first rescued it at an estate sale. And it was minimal then despite having set outside under a canopy for at least a year. I have no idea what the prior owner(s) used on the top, if anything, but all I've ever used is wax.

Makes me wonder if old cast iron was more resistant than the new stuff.

The top does have this nice patina that old metal gets and that collectors adore. Maybe that helps protect it.

Reply to
Larry Blanchard

his office in. It's probably 30 years old, and never saw much use. I'm trying to fix it up a bit to use it on occasion.

the nice folks here for some advice.

"bubbling". The "wings", if that's the right term were more badly rusted around the edges, which had been bare metal.

came out passably well, I think. The wing edges still look rusty, but I flattened them down enough, I think.

ago, before I did any brushing. So now I have a slurry of rust particles and WD-40 covering the table top. I could use some sort of degreaser to get it off, but then I imagine I'd need to cover it with something to keep it from rusting again. Wax, I'm thinking.

I have tried several products for preventing rust. Wax and Bowshield are popular but did not work for me. I use Bostitch TopCote. Empire TopSaver is another good brand but a bit more trouble to use.

Odd things that I have learned through the years.

Elmers, and Titebond wood glues will remove rust from the iron top, so well that the finish relieved will be silver.

Have I ever use glue to restore a finish? NO! But drips of glue hit the surface and when I remove the glue some time later the surface is like new.

A flat card scraper will make a top, in pretty good shape, as smooth as a baby's butt very quickly with a pass or two.

Reply to
Leon

I have a neighbor that is a gun engraver. He claims that after using naval jelly that he never has a rust problem, with no further treatment of any kind.

Reply to
Leon

My application of wd-40, Scotch Brite and a little rotary wire brushing see= ms to have rendered most of the top serviceable. As per the tips here, I cl= eaned up the rusty goo with paint thinner, making several passes. I applied= some paste wax because that's what I had handy, but I may try some of the = specialized spray-on stuff later on. I may also use some naval jelly on the= one really damaged edge of the right-hand "wing".=20

So here's the next problem. I have not yet found a blade guard anywhere nea= r this saw. I think it may have come with one, so searching around may yet = turn it up. But it certainly did not have a "riving knife", if that's the r= ight term.=20

I remember being taught about kickback in high school; mostly the stern adm= onition never to be in the path of the wood. I've done just a little bit of= research, and I'm wondering what the knowledgeable folks here think would = be a reasonable and cost effective solution.=20

2 products from Micro-Jig look interesting, at least to my untutored eye. T= hey make two different splitters (although I'd also have to buy a zero-clea= rance insert) and their "Grr-ripper" (silly name, IMO). I'm sure there are = dozens of others. I'm looking for safety and ease of use for reasonable co= st; cost commensurate with my intermittent woodworking.
Reply to
Greg Guarino

to have rendered most of the top serviceable. As per the tips here, I cleaned up the rusty goo with paint thinner, making several passes. I applied some paste wax because that's what I had handy, but I may try some of the specialized spray-on stuff later on. I may also use some naval jelly on the one really damaged edge of the right-hand "wing".

this saw. I think it may have come with one, so searching around may yet turn it up. But it certainly did not have a "riving knife", if that's the right term.

admonition never to be in the path of the wood. I've done just a little bit of research, and I'm wondering what the knowledgeable folks here think would be a reasonable and cost effective solution.

make two different splitters (although I'd also have to buy a zero-clearance insert) and their "Grr-ripper" (silly name, IMO). I'm sure there are dozens of others. I'm looking for safety and ease of use for reasonable cost; cost commensurate with my intermittent woodworking.

I use the Microjig splitter, the on with the steel center core.

Reply to
Leon

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