On Sun, 12 Feb 2012 12:46:29 -0800 (PST), Greg Guarino
to have rendered most of the top serviceable. As per the tips here, I cleaned up
the rusty goo with paint thinner, making several passes. I applied some paste
wax because that's what I had handy, but I may try some of the specialized
spray-on stuff later on. I may also use some naval jelly on the one really
damaged edge of the right-hand "wing".
this saw. I think it may have come with one, so searching around may yet turn it
up. But it certainly did not have a "riving knife", if that's the right term.
admonition never to be in the path of the wood. I've done just a little bit of
research, and I'm wondering what the knowledgeable folks here think would be a
reasonable and cost effective solution.
make two different splitters (although I'd also have to buy a zero-clearance
insert) and their "Grr-ripper" (silly name, IMO). I'm sure there are dozens of
others. I'm looking for safety and ease of use for reasonable cost; cost
commensurate with my intermittent woodworking.
You remember right, stay out of the "throw line" of the work. That
being said, you can still get wacked by a "top of the blade"
throw-back because the wood may come sideways off the blade. Don't ask
how I know this. If you want to see it in action, just forget to lock
down the rip fence when cutting a 48" square of 3/4 MDF. THe balde
teeth leave really neat tracks across the bottom of the board as they
chuck it at you.
The Micro Jig splitters work quite well, though you need to be careful
in drilling the holes that they snap into in your ZCI . The splitter
has to line up just about perfectly with the kerf line on the saw.
Follow the instructions and you'll be OK.
Others will disagree (and some of them can still count to ten without
taking off their shoes and socks), but operating without a blade guard
of any kind is, IMHO, a bad idea. Sure there are times when not using
one is maybe OK, but not having the option would be, for me, scary.
Look at the Delta overarm guard ($$) and the Excaliber (sp?, $$$).
Either may give you ideas on how to engineer some kind of blade guard
that isn't too much of a hassle to use. I have a Jet TS and replaced
the stock hunk-a-junk with the Delta overarm many years ago and I
haven't regretted it. I also installed a Biesmeyer splitter that is
great 'cause it's easy on, easy off. Neither may be an option on your
Making a ZCI is not all that tough, especially if you have a router
and a flush trim bit - just trace the existing insert onto a piece of
baltic birch ply (a flat piece!), rough cut outside the line with a
sabre saw (or coping saw), then use the existing insert as a template
fastened down with double sided tape or even a clamp (that you'll have
to move a couple of times) and rout around it with the trim bit. Make
1/2 dozen at one time and you can cut a ZCI for common angle cuts and
The Grr-ripper may have a silly name, but it is a GREAT piece of gear.
I have and use 2 of them on most cutting projects and on the router
table. It's one of those things you won't regret paying for over time.
The folks that designed it thought it through and it damn well works!
Little things like the O rings that keep the threaded fasteners from
falling out - brilliant and simple solution to a really irritating
On Mon, 13 Feb 2012 09:51:53 -0500, Greg Guarino wrote:
You must be thinking of the type of guard that comes with most low to
medium price saws that combines guard and splitter. No, you can't use
one like that. But you can make or buy an overarm guard that works quite
well. And it's much less of a PITA than the guard/splitter combo.
The overarm guards that you can buy are expensive. But some even come
with dust collection.
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
I use it 2 ways. On wider stock where the guard isn't in the way I'll
use 2 of them on long rips where a push stick wouldn't be appropriate
and in lieu of using just my palms on the board. The GR does not slip
on the board, even if it's sawdusty, the way my hands do. You're
holding the board down and against the fence automatically if you
angle the GR's top handle towards the fence as the mfg suggests.
Where the GR really shines is in ripping thin slices against the
fence. Think cutting your own 1/4" thick banding to cover the ends of
plywood panels so the ply grain doesn't show. In other cases, like
ripping a 2.5" board to 2" wide, I feel like I have better control of
the board with a GR (or 2) than I would with a push stick and feather
board. In both these cases I don't use a guard, just run the tunnel in
the GR over the blade. Sounds (and looks) scary, but it's actually
quite safe as your hand is well above the blade and shielded by the
plastic body of the GR. I'm sure it might be possible to get your hand
on the blade when doing this but you'd have to really work at it.
I love the things!
On Sun, 12 Feb 2012 12:46:29 -0800, Greg Guarino wrote:
As far as kickback, a splitter or riving knife is all that's needed. A
blade guard is to protect the operator.
My old Delta has an overarm guard that works well for ripping as long as
the wood is wider than the guard. It's a pain for crosscutting because
it's metal and heavy. The link below isn't the greatest picture, but it
shows the guard. Shouldn't be too hard to make something similar. But
make it from plastic so it's light.
Found another picture from the side:
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
Go here and hang out and look through the posts.....
Many Craftsman restores and scores of others...
Sign up and lurk around for a while to see what's up.
Go here: http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/ and do some more
For the top, I would use single edge razor blades after a good
soak in WD40. Use a basic razor blade scraper to "shave" the rust
and other gunk up. After several rounds of that, use a ROS with
120,220,440 and WD40 to clean it up.
To get it really shiny, use any good polishing compound and a
A few hours of work and she will come back to life...
Look at some of these:
On 2/11/2012 1:45 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
his office in. It's probably 30 years old, and never saw much use. I'm trying to
fix it up a bit to use it on occasion.
"bubbling". The "wings", if that's the right term were more badly rusted around
the edges, which had been bare metal.
came out passably well, I think. The wing edges still look rusty, but I
flattened them down enough, I think.
ago, before I did any brushing. So now I have a slurry of rust particles and
WD-40 covering the table top. I could use some sort of degreaser to get it off,
but then I imagine I'd need to cover it with something to keep it from rusting
again. Wax, I'm thinking.
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